NATURE PLACES, KINGFISHERS AND SHELTER AT ASTAKOS - 31 AUGUST to 5 SEPTEMBER, DAYS 122 to 127
We had loved the mountainous and green island of Ithaca over
the few days we were there and it was hard after that to feel so much for
Cephalonia, the much larger neighbour. Cephalonia has mountains to 1600 metres,
more bare of trees and what else? On our way south to Zakynthos we had touched
Cephalonia, once in the small harbour of Eufimia, where we were not keen to
swim in polluted water, then anchoring in an open bay before dark at Nea Skala
before a pre-dawn start the next morning to the more remote island.
Now we had returned in sun from Keri after another pre-dawn
start and anchored over sand in beautiful clean shallow water some distance off
a long uncrowded beach on the open Katelios Bay.
Later as the west wind came up we more round the point to
the East side to Nea Skala from where we had started the Zakynthos journey. In
sunlight we could again see the sandy bottom through lovely water. Perhaps
sandy beaches attract the tourists?
After sleeping we awoke to Friday and decided that it was
the day we should continue East to a special nature area on the mainland. We
did not expect the right wind until afternoon so we rowed ashore to the beach
to stock up especially with fruit at the AB Food Market. We had already found
this to be a good store in Ithaca with better quality and freshness than many
small shops on the smaller islands, and better value. Shopping for supplies has
often left us disappointed especially with cucumbers and tomatoes. High prices,
fruit kept in a fridge, and going bad within a couple of days after purchase
have been sadly typical. Peaches and nectarines have been our joy.
Before shopping we stretched our legs walking along this
quiet and pleasant beach resort to some beautiful trees where we sat awhile
enjoying the cool shade and light sea breeze.
The timing of sailing to Limin Petala was partly to catch good wind for sailing and
partly to be in this sheltered place ahead of some stronger wind forecasts. We
started at about 2 pm motoring in light wind to give the fridge some power, and
while the promised west wind did come, it had little strength at first. Sails
were set and as they worked harder I lowered the engine revs until finally
after three hours we were sailing without motor. The promised NW wind started
to kick in and I reefed the genoa. We sailed fast at around 6.5 knots, the wind
rising to at least Force 5, white horses everywhere over the sea.
At about 7 pm we
sailed into the shelter of Limin Petala and chose a place to anchor. Eleven
other nature lover yachts were already there. The wind continued to blow
strongly until about 10 pm.
Eight left next morning, Saturday, and a few less came in. I
took the dinghy and camera to see the shoreline closely and to find the cave.
One black goat looked down from the hill. One black crab scuttled away as I
came close to his rock. The wide expanse of shallow water adjoins wetlands and
is protected by Petala Island. Fishing and some agriculture are the only
activities. Quite large fish leap from the water.
The anchorage is sheltered from sea swell but like a large
lake small waves build up with the strong afternoon and evening winds. It is
relaxed there, no clothes necessary.
Watching the weather again, and having regard for our need
for motoring for extra power we left on Sunday heading north to Astakos,
seemingly sheltered from the expected strong west and NW winds. On the way we
passed small islands, and a few fish farms. The islands look lovely from a
distance, seemingly fringed by white sand, but close up we find the white to be
rock below the green line of bushes and trees.
We could see space on the quay at Astakos and came
alongside, two locals helping by taking our lines. One is the son of the German
restaurant owner. He invited us to the restaurant a few metres away and told us
that water and electricity on the quay are free. The old man we found later to
be the man to secure the ferry line when she docks.
Soon we were connected to mains electricity, ships batteries
on charge, computer, phones, modem, power pack and LED light on charge and
being lunch time we did what we almost never do, eat Sunday lunch ashore. Tzatsiki,
Bead, Mixed salad and grilled calamari were washed down with half a litre of
cold white wine.
We were considering to stay the night to charge ships
batteries more until another restaurant owner told me we would be in the way of
the ferry, arriving at 7.pm. Before the ferry came we pulled out and motored
one mile to the small bay with trees which had looked inviting earlier.
We found it to be Boulder Bay, described in the pilot book
as a bight. Anita longs for trees and this small shallow bay satisfied our
needs for relaxing green colours, and the small peninsular on which is a Greek
Orthodox church gave us some protection from the winds and white horses each
afternoon. Many pines and cypress trees are here, tall mountains behind them.
On Monday one young man walked round into the bay, was
making art and playing beautiful music. Later we swam over to say hello to
Pete, who is staying in Astakos at a family house for his summer holiday away
from Athens. He invited us over to his “beach home” anytime.
Anita was thrilled to spot again a kingfisher (bird).
On Tuesday morning I took the dinghy to make photos. And
later I took Anita for a closer look at the shoreline. This time we both saw
the pair of kingfishers. They are so beautiful and shy so it is always a reward
to see them. The afternoon, as forecast was for more gusty winds from west than
before and Apataki was dancing around the bay, the winds eddying. We were glad
to go ashore to meet Pete and chatted for some time. He gave us a 10 cent
drachma coin, the pre Euro currency of Greece. We talked about the crisis and
it’s effect on Greece, and the corrupt politicians running the country for
their own pockets, a commonly held opinion.
We also talked about connection with nature, being
conscious, etc. We felt a great affinity to him and his sensitivity. There is
hope when there are young people like him.
Wednesday expected stronger winds from the west. We decided
to leave the delightful green bay and return to the town quay to charge
batteries more, and enjoy shelter. The strong winds continued through the
evening, making symphony in the rigging of the yachts here, and small swell in
the harbour.
Twice the car ferry came in. The first time some fishermen
asked us for something in Greek as we were closest. Anita offered a boathook
and they were happy. The ferry had picked up an old fisherman anchor, chain and
warp on it’s anchor, and I joined the half dozen or so of people trying to
release it from the quay side. That operation complete, the ferry sailed with
many tourists.
In the evening she came again, mostly for trucks. It was
interesting to see the skill of bringing the bows to the quay with the strong
wind. Two lines were secured and the stern was held in place by the engines.
I was happy to meet David and Sarah sailing their Twins 38,
a Pat Patterson design, larger sister to my Heavenly Twins 26. At 30 years old (Apataki is 38), she
makes a comfortable year round cruising home with many advantages over the
modern Lagoon type taller and taller catamarans, if less in vogue. Just 3 were built, so it is unlikely we will
make one our home.
