WAITING FOR THE RIGHT WEATHER AND HIGH WINDS OFF THE CAPE 27
– 30 AUGUST, DAYS 121 - 124
I rowed ashore on a calm Monday morning and immediately
found the petrol I needed from Big Blue boat rental company. The young Albanian
employee siphoned from a 20 litre tank into my 5 litre cans. I paid 33 euros,
equivalent to 1.65 per litre, but as he filled the cans full it was even
better. The last fill was in Ithaca at 1.82. Food shopping is more expensive
here except for a lovely loaf with sesame seeds at 90 cents. The Wave café has
become our wi-fi and equipment charging point and also gave us a tub of ice for
the fridge.
The weather is not the settled weather we have enjoyed in
previous days, instead the blasts from the north we experienced trying to come
from Italy to Greece. There was much
rain over the mainland. There are windows of opportunity with light wind but we
want to make a few miles to the north and the winds are coming from there. We
have a small boat and don’t want to battle against seas and excessive wind. We
wait, watching four forecasts to leave at the best time.
Anita saw a turtle right next to the boat.
On Tuesday morning we had swell from the night and rising
wind. We were anchored in a very shallow cove and I felt it best to move
towards the main Keri beach. Nowhere was
sheltered and we felt the swell from across 8 miles of this large bay. The
bottom shelves gently but we were in the waves. Wind was about Force 5 with the
sea covered in white horses.
I used the new anchor again. At 10 kg it is lighter than the
old one but Havcat 27 designer Lars Oudrup told me that he always used a 10 kg
Bruce anchor in his. My heavy one is a Bruce, this is a 10 kg Hall. It is good
to try it to gain confidence in it’s capabilities. We anchored in 3.2 metres
over sand and after letting out 15 m of chain and similar or more of warp
(rope) she stayed put. Later I swam to see the anchor well dug in.
I had shore plans for the morning but ship security comes
first. I had a thought to check a possible anchorage on the mainland that we
could reach across to under genoa. There is one to the East but already the
wind had come round to NNE and we decided to sit it out, expecting more
sheltered north wind later. That took a long time to come. We did not put up an
awning until well into the afternoon as it was so windy.
The forecast for Wednesday
was for less wind, and from the north again. It was less but we still
rode the waves with white horses on the water, and like yesterday it actually
came from the NE making us uncomfortable again.
Finally the wind shifted to west and another calm mellow
evening. We went ashore for more charging, petrol and some food supplies.
The plan was to wake on Thursday at 5 am but by 4 I was
awake and there was some wind so I readied the boat and left motoring with
sails set in the moonlight. By 5 am we
were off the southern coast and with rising wind. The direction was constantly
varying round the land. The boat was going too fast and under pressure. I
rolled in most of the genoa and Anita came on deck to see if she could help. We
were sailing close to the wind at 7 knots. Headlands can be windy places and I
had not expected so much wind. I took down the main and we continued west under
reefed genoa and some motor until we could be certain of what lay ahead.
All settled down and eventually we raised the main again and
with reefed genoa sailed close reaching
in an approximate NW direction along the coast. After 9 am we passed the Wreck
Bay again and now close hauled sailed as far to the north and east as possible.
The direction changed as we passed the island. Eventually we could hold course
for the SE tip of Kefalonia and anchored there in clear water over sand to
enjoy a swim. An hour earlier we had seen a tuna jump from the water twice.
Later as forecast the west wind came up and we came around
to the East side to anchor for the night in the same place from which we had
departed for Zakyntos 8 days earlier. The spell over us was broken. We had
escaped from the clutches of Zakynthos and come north again.
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