NATURE PLACES, KINGFISHERS AND SHELTER AT ASTAKOS - DAYS 122 to 127

NATURE PLACES, KINGFISHERS AND SHELTER AT ASTAKOS  - 31 AUGUST to 5 SEPTEMBER, DAYS 122 to 127

We had loved the mountainous and green island of Ithaca over the few days we were there and it was hard after that to feel so much for Cephalonia, the much larger neighbour. Cephalonia has mountains to 1600 metres, more bare of trees and what else? On our way south to Zakynthos we had touched Cephalonia, once in the small harbour of Eufimia, where we were not keen to swim in polluted water, then anchoring in an open bay before dark at Nea Skala before a pre-dawn start the next morning to the more remote island.

Now we had returned in sun from Keri after another pre-dawn start and anchored over sand in beautiful clean shallow water some distance off a long uncrowded beach on the open Katelios Bay.

Later as the west wind came up we more round the point to the East side to Nea Skala from where we had started the Zakynthos journey. In sunlight we could again see the sandy bottom through lovely water. Perhaps sandy beaches attract the tourists?

After sleeping we awoke to Friday and decided that it was the day we should continue East to a special nature area on the mainland. We did not expect the right wind until afternoon so we rowed ashore to the beach to stock up especially with fruit at the AB Food Market. We had already found this to be a good store in Ithaca with better quality and freshness than many small shops on the smaller islands, and better value. Shopping for supplies has often left us disappointed especially with cucumbers and tomatoes. High prices, fruit kept in a fridge, and going bad within a couple of days after purchase have been sadly typical. Peaches and nectarines have been our joy.

Before shopping we stretched our legs walking along this quiet and pleasant beach resort to some beautiful trees where we sat awhile enjoying the cool shade and light sea breeze.

The timing of sailing to Limin Petala  was partly to catch good wind for sailing and partly to be in this sheltered place ahead of some stronger wind forecasts. We started at about 2 pm motoring in light wind to give the fridge some power, and while the promised west wind did come, it had little strength at first. Sails were set and as they worked harder I lowered the engine revs until finally after three hours we were sailing without motor. The promised NW wind started to kick in and I reefed the genoa. We sailed fast at around 6.5 knots, the wind rising to at least Force 5, white horses everywhere over the sea.

At about  7 pm we sailed into the shelter of Limin Petala and chose a place to anchor. Eleven other nature lover yachts were already there. The wind continued to blow strongly until about 10 pm.

Eight left next morning, Saturday, and a few less came in. I took the dinghy and camera to see the shoreline closely and to find the cave. One black goat looked down from the hill. One black crab scuttled away as I came close to his rock. The wide expanse of shallow water adjoins wetlands and is protected by Petala Island. Fishing and some agriculture are the only activities. Quite large fish leap from the water.

The anchorage is sheltered from sea swell but like a large lake small waves build up with the strong afternoon and evening winds. It is relaxed there, no clothes necessary.

Watching the weather again, and having regard for our need for motoring for extra power we left on Sunday heading north to Astakos, seemingly sheltered from the expected strong west and NW winds. On the way we passed small islands, and a few fish farms. The islands look lovely from a distance, seemingly fringed by white sand, but close up we find the white to be rock below the green line of bushes and trees.

We could see space on the quay at Astakos and came alongside, two locals helping by taking our lines. One is the son of the German restaurant owner. He invited us to the restaurant a few metres away and told us that water and electricity on the quay are free. The old man we found later to be the man to secure the ferry line when she docks.

Soon we were connected to mains electricity, ships batteries on charge, computer, phones, modem, power pack and LED light on charge and being lunch time we did what we almost never do, eat Sunday lunch ashore. Tzatsiki, Bead, Mixed salad and grilled calamari were washed down with half a litre of cold white wine.

We were considering to stay the night to charge ships batteries more until another restaurant owner told me we would be in the way of the ferry, arriving at 7.pm. Before the ferry came we pulled out and motored one mile to the small bay with trees which had looked inviting earlier.

We found it to be Boulder Bay, described in the pilot book as a bight. Anita longs for trees and this small shallow bay satisfied our needs for relaxing green colours, and the small peninsular on which is a Greek Orthodox church gave us some protection from the winds and white horses each afternoon. Many pines and cypress trees are here, tall mountains behind them.

On Monday one young man walked round into the bay, was making art and playing beautiful music. Later we swam over to say hello to Pete, who is staying in Astakos at a family house for his summer holiday away from Athens. He invited us over to his “beach home” anytime.

Anita was thrilled to spot again a kingfisher (bird).

On Tuesday morning I took the dinghy to make photos. And later I took Anita for a closer look at the shoreline. This time we both saw the pair of kingfishers. They are so beautiful and shy so it is always a reward to see them. The afternoon, as forecast was for more gusty winds from west than before and Apataki was dancing around the bay, the winds eddying. We were glad to go ashore to meet Pete and chatted for some time. He gave us a 10 cent drachma coin, the pre Euro currency of Greece. We talked about the crisis and it’s effect on Greece, and the corrupt politicians running the country for their own pockets, a commonly held opinion.

We also talked about connection with nature, being conscious, etc. We felt a great affinity to him and his sensitivity. There is hope when there are young people like him.

Wednesday expected stronger winds from the west. We decided to leave the delightful green bay and return to the town quay to charge batteries more, and enjoy shelter. The strong winds continued through the evening, making symphony in the rigging of the yachts here, and small swell in the harbour.

Twice the car ferry came in. The first time some fishermen asked us for something in Greek as we were closest. Anita offered a boathook and they were happy. The ferry had picked up an old fisherman anchor, chain and warp on it’s anchor, and I joined the half dozen or so of people trying to release it from the quay side. That operation complete, the ferry sailed with many tourists.

In the evening she came again, mostly for trucks. It was interesting to see the skill of bringing the bows to the quay with the strong wind. Two lines were secured and the stern was held in place by the engines.

I was happy to meet David and Sarah sailing their Twins 38, a Pat Patterson design, larger sister to my Heavenly Twins  26. At 30 years old (Apataki is 38), she makes a comfortable year round cruising home with many advantages over the modern Lagoon type taller and taller catamarans, if less in vogue.  Just 3 were built, so it is unlikely we will make one our home.