RETURN TO GREEN WATER, RENDEZVOUS WITH POLYNESIAN CATAMARAN, JAMES WHARRAM  AND BAMBI - 12 to  16 September, Days 129 to 133

Taking the pontoon space in Sivota, Levkas, was a good decision, and with tailed mooring lines we did not have to worry about using the anchor which is not easy in Apataki for bows to mooring which is best for us. Having electricity we charged everything including ship’s batteries, took a shower ashore at the Yacht Bar, and they put our 1 kg yogurt pot of water in the freezer over-night which really helps to keep the fridge temperature down as we can’t power it except during sun hours.

We were happy to see WHAT’S THE RUSH, one of the boats wintering in Ragusa. Next morning we caught up with Gwen and Pete before leaving.

We are starting to understand the system of getting a pontoon space at tavernas although we did not approach one when we arrived. Apart from the expectation of eating there, many are popular and require a reservation, even by phone in the morning. Without this boats are likely to be turned away. Some offer electricity, water and even showers. At our first attempt in Maganissi we had been turned away having no booking. We really like to anchor and be free to swim but it is handy to be able to walk ashore, and have the facilities sometimes.

As I topped up the water tanks I noticed a sun hat in the sea close to the boat. I checked and found mine missing, so there it was, in about 3 metres of water. With mask and fins I dived to recover it despite harbours not being the cleanest places.

We enjoyed a downwind sail with SW wind into and up the channel between Levkas and Meganissi as we headed for a rendezvous with catamaran pioneer James Wharram, Hanneke Boon and their 63’ SPIRIT OF GAIA which has circumnavigated the globe. 

They were coming from Preveza through the Levkas canal and told us their intention to anchor in a small bay outside of Nidri, Fraxia.

With perfect timing we saw them motoring south after enjoying a good wind, as we came the last mile and a half under motor at the same time north bound. Both catamarans were then anchored with bows to the sea, and lines ashore to the rocks. Unfortunately Jim’s son Jamie Wharram stepped on a sea urchin as he tied their lines and was in pain from the spikes which break off and stay in the foot.

A while later after swimming they called us over and for the first time I was able to stand on the decks of the Wharram flagship, with it’s huge slatted central deck, including a firebox for cooking.

A few days earlier I had read that sea urchin spikes can be dissolved with vinegar or lemon. Jamie tried this, and after initial pain, it worked.

It was good to catch up with James and Hanneke after not seeing them for many years. They have influenced so many people to build their own boat and explore creeks and oceans. They had paying guests on board so we left them to cook fish over the fire.

They moved on to Nidri the next afternoon, but not before a Wharram Narai 40 catamaran, Chehili, we had seen a couple of times saw SPIRIT OF GAIA and came into the bay to say hello. Jim and Hanneka crawled over the boat with interest.

Next morning we sailed the short distance to Nidri and went ashore to buy a replacement bottle screw from Nidri Marine chandlers, and for food shopping. This time we found a good supermarket with good choice and fair prices, rare to find in these islands.

We anchored again at the south end of Vlikho Bay in the green water under the mountain, a good place to relax. The weather has really settled down and we are not worrying about strong gusts in the afternoons. We had many days of those recently.

I spent more time ashore at the Vliho Yacht Club for power to connect and do the necessary work.

I tried to fit the new bottle screw but it is too short despite the thread being correct so I have to return to the chandlery.

We decided to walk on Sunday as the boat is very securely anchored and we went around the east side of the big bay (our green lake) past Tranquil Bay where we anchored previously to the little church at the end from where there is a wonderful vista across other islands to the mainland. 

On the way back we looked at the Wilhelm Dörpfeld grave and memorial. Wilhelm Dörpfeld was a German architect and archaeologist, a pioneer of stratigraphic excavation and precise graphical documentation of archaeological projects. He is famous for his work on Bronze Age sites around the Mediterranean, such as Tiryns and Hisarlik, where he continued Heinrich Schliemann's excavations.

It was a lovely tree lined walk and we came across a young male deer and made close connection for a few minutes.

Our sailing adventure is coming to a close soon and my mind is pre-occupied with logistics of our forthcoming plans. It is not a simple case of “going home”. We don’t have a fixed home but we do need to earn some money after five months away so soon we will be in Malta offering our massage services until mid-October and the boat will rest ashore in Preveza for the winter.

FEELING AUTUMNAL, PIGS, WASPS and HARMONY IN BEING – DAYS 123 to 128

FEELING AUTUMNAL, PIGS, WASPS and HARMONY IN BEING – 6 to 11 SEPTEMBER, DAYS 123 to 128

Anita spoke one evening about the many wonderful places we visit, and beautiful photos we share with you showing  paradise after paradise but more important is how you feel yourself. When you are “connected” any beautiful place can be heaven on earth when you are in balance, heart, body and spirit, together. Be fully present in the moment, and only feel this moment through your breath and heart. Just observe the thoughts which come to you, and be connected in the “here and now” to be very happy.  Otherwise you can consume one paradise after another and never feel satisfied.

Five yachts left  Astakos on a quiet Thursday morning now that the winds promised to be less severe. 

Five is not many but not many yachts visit this lovely little town on the mainland.

The sea was like a mirror until we reached the southern tip of Kastos Island then as we turned the wind slowly came up so we had a pleasant sail over the two miles to the sheltered bay of Port Leone, with it’s tiny village deserted after the 1953 earthquake. The church is kept in good repair and one expensive looking holiday home has been built where boats can tie up.

It is such a beautiful place with steep wooded slopes, and indeed the whole island is one small mountain after another. As usual we find some very old olive trees, perhaps planted 500 years ago by the Venetians, and the occasional goat, or we hear the goat bells.

Care is needed at the sea edge as there are many sea urchins. If the spines get into the foot or hand there is much pain. Many fish swan round the boat in the clear water.

We stayed for three nights and  each night the place has different energy depending on the boats which visit. One night can be peaceful and calm, another can have laughter from groups enjoying their cruise. On the second night were many Germans, mostly in chartered boats.

Wanting to charge computer etc. we left on Monday morning  and sailed slowly across to Atokos Island to anchor in One House Bay. This is an almost deserted island but popular with yachts and we could count about 35 as we came close. There was not much room in the shallows for us to anchor, but we found a spot close to other yachts and went to swim. I watched through my swim mask as a gust dug the anchor in deeper as the west wind of the afternoon kicked it.

Back on board we noticed two black pigs walk down the beach and cool off in the sea, then they lay on the stones just above the waterline. They seemed like an old couple and were following their daily routine.

We set up the camping shower bag from the boom over the cockpit for Anita to wash her hair. She had barely started before I noticed that we were much closer to another boat and clearly our anchor had dragged in the gusts. The shower ended abruptly and it was action stations, getting motor into slow forward and raising the anchor. As we circled around the bay we noticed that others had dragged too. Some left, others looked to re-anchor. We did not see a place where we wanted to risk dragging again where the anchor might not hold, so we made the decision to leave.

Once outside the bay and with slow forward on the motor Anita took the shower and we considered options as we had intended to spend the night there. It was possible to sail close hauled towards the north but the sea was building. We are cruising so we opted for a comfortable  beam reach back to Port Leone, two hours away. 

Once there we anchored in a different part of the bay from before to avoid the many wasps which had be a nuisance during our stay and enjoyed a calm night.

On Monday we left Kalamos Island once more and motor sailed to Sivota, on the south side of Levkas (Levkada). 

There were so many yachts at sea in the light winds, it seem like a regatta was taking place. Here we are close to yacht charter bases and the yachts are busy with adults now that school holidays have finished.

Some tavernas have pontoons for their clients but we opted for a private pontoon on the north east side of the town with laid mooring lines so tied up for safety as well as to use electricity and to have easy access to the shore.  Again gusty winds were expected in the late afternoon so we could go ashore without worries.

Evenings are getting shorter and cooler.