THE WILD SIDE AND ICONIC SHIPWRECK BAY ZANTE – 20 – 22 AUGUST, DAYS 114 to 116

THE WILD SIDE AND ICONIC SHIPWRECK BAY ZANTE – 20 – 22 AUGUST, DAYS 114 to 116

The water in the harbour of Eufimia was surprisingly not clean for swimming, and finding a safe place to tie the dinghy had been a problem but the water was calm for sleeping.

We motored out on Monday morning into the light East wind to sail south. Once out of the large bay we put up sails and stared tacking south. As usual here the early wind dies and we resorted again to the motor. North of Poros we saw a couple of yachts anchored in turquoise water. The pilot book, charts and electronic charts do not shower smaller anchoring  possibilities and it is often best to see what other boats have found. We went towards the shore and anchored in a small turquoise paradise over sand. It was necessary to watch carefully and avoid underwater rocks.

Later we continued south, considered anchoring in the bay of Poros, 

but decided to continue as we wanted to use the settled weather and cross tomorrow to Zacinthos (Zante) and go to the west coast to see the well known Wreck Bay, one of three iconic images of Greece, the others being the white and blue houses of Mykonos and the Parthenon in Athens.

There was some SW wind and we were motoring with sails. My plan was to anchor in a bay on the south side but the stronger evening wind was creating a swell so we stopped off a small resort town at the East side for shelter anchoring in 4 metres over sand. The bay was wide open, 180 degrees sea and of course waves from distant passing ships are felt

I wanted to arrive at Wreck Beach on the exposed west coast  before the tourist boats and hundreds of day visitors. Waking about 4 am I could feel wind and set sails to take advantage of it. The start was slow under the dark sky with bright stars. One taverna was still playing lovely Greek music which we could hear across the water.

The wind strengthened, progress was good and the sun rose over a distant island near to the mainland coast. 

We arrived at Wreck Beach about 9 am and managed to get ashore by dinghy in time to make photos before the crowds came. All the photos show the beach from the top of the high cliffs. We saw a different perspective.

Soon the first tourist boats arrived displaying a high disregard for respect of other water users, coming in fast and making big wash causing difficulties for swimmers and yachts alike. I could not believe how aggressive some of the captains are, reminding me of similar experience from the captain of “Hornblower” in Malta a few years ago putting Apataki at serious risk, avoided only by one of my crew fending off. That was the only time in my sailing life that I reported a ship to the Police.

Some yachts had spent the night in the bay, but were soon moving out. We also moved out and came to a large bay with gorgeous clear blue water under high white cliffs and anchored to swim. Later the tourist boats passed through there too, and the many small rental boats. While some were slow and courteous passing anchored boats many were not.

By late afternoon a light west wind added to the swell of many boats and it was expected to strengthen, otherwise we could have enjoyed a night there. We motored south, later with wind help arriving at Keri, a sheltered bay in the south at 10 pm. The scenery of raw rock, caves, cliffs with some green was just wonderful, not the images used to promote the island. Anita was ecstatic in this nature. Heading south we saw the sunset over the sea for the first time in ages. Sunrise and sunset at sea in one day.