MOUNTAIN WEATHER BEFORE BECOMING CALM AND ON TO CEPHALONIA - Days 110 to 113

MOUNTAIN WEATHER BEFORE BECOMING CALM AND ON TO CEPHALONIA -  16 to 19 August, Days 110 to 113

When planning our anchorages we consider especially wind and sea conditions as well as location purpose. One day can be in beautiful silent nature where we can swim in crystal waters while another will be a town stop where we can buy provisions and make laundry.

I awoke at 07.30 on Thursday hearing small drops of rain on the cabin roof so came up immediately to take in what needs to stay dry. The sky was dark with cloud and mountain tops obscured. Lightening was making lines across the sky. I prepared the decks for the rain and expected wind.

The anchorage at Vahty, the main town of Ithaca is well protected from swell so we had a night without movement, but two bar / restaurants close to us were playing music until about 05.00 so we had not slept well.

The rain came with the wind, and I took down the awnings which were suffering in the gusts. Many boats were in the lovely natural harbour because of the unsettled weather, many too for the waterside restaurants and bars.

The rain passed but the clouds stayed for much of the day depriving us of solar power for the fridge and I had to run the motor, as usual, early, but again in early afternoon. In such weather many people don’t move, and we were in no hurry to get on with the day. Around 4 pm we took the second batch of dirty laundry (whites) to the self-service laundrette where again we could charge device batteries and I could write a blog post.

On the previous day I had been alone in there and the TV played music, but this time it was quite busy and two overweight women drinking Coca Cola had changed the channel to watch a typically false Greek soap. When it finished a shopping and beauty programme came on. It could only think how the media make women feel bad if they don’t have the latest clothes and accessories, and don’t use enough chemical filled make-up. Make up is a mask to hide insecurity, but to use a little for special occasions is ok.

My own preference is for a woman to be her natural self. In fact big make-up, big red lips and perfumes are a big turn off for me. I like Anita’s skin care programme which apart from cleansing the face is mostly slowly massaging coconut oil into all of her skin. The result is moisturised skin and minimal risk from chemicals.

Of course the Beauty and Fashion industries have to promote the regular bad habits, including buying unnecessary material possessions (even going into debt). We want to create awareness that natural is best and it is not necessary to waste money in order to feel good. Feeling good about yourself comes from inside, not from owning more bags or shoes, or using expensive make-up as a mask.

At around 5 pm we returned to the boat and made the decision to return to the last bay for the night. The 30 minutes motoring also took the fridge to temperature again.

This time we did not experience gusts after sun down. The weather seems to have settled down but always in the vicinity of mountains we must we cautious. We had some small swell but then a good night.

Walking on Friday morning the only sounds were cicadas, distant goat bells and tiny waves lapping the shore. 

We swam then motored back to Vathy in the afternoon to buy fresh provisions and charge devices again. 

This time there was a slop in the harbour, and only about 20 % of the boats from two days before.

It is difficult to find a quiet coffee shop in Vathy with a table close to an electric socket for charging. We ended up on a pavement in front of a restaurant (most tables across the road at the waterside). The waiter was an art teacher working summer restaurant to make ends meet. He told us that Greece created democracy but now does not have one.  His parents are retired and after paying insurance for 40 years have to live on a pension of 520 euros a month. I think many other European countries are similar in that respect. He went on to say that the economy of the Islands is good, tourists spending money, but on the mainland is where the Greek economy struggles most. He wants to visit Malta to see the Caravaggio paintings there.

The slop in the harbour, and the wind causing it, continued into the night. By morning it was calm again and we motored to the fuel quay to top up our depleted petrol tanks with 34 litres and take on about 80 litres of water.  Petrol at the yacht quay and in the town costs 1.82 euros per litre. I have never paid more.

We motored along the beautiful coast to the large bay of Sarakiniko where we planned to spend a night. Before coming to the obvious anchorage near the main beach we found some boats anchored on the north side in crystal clear water, anchored in about 7 metres, and took a line to tie round a rock at the shore. The fridge performed well after the extra motoring, but I turn it off each night to save battery, then run the motor to bring it to temperature in the morning after which we hope the sun will give enough energy to run it again through the day.

The spot was just behind a small headland and gave protection from the full blast of the prevailing wind. DRIZZLE was anchored there, Maltese flag. She is one of many fully crewed luxury vessels in these waters.  Each day we see many, close to or distant.

The night was quiet and we woke on Sunday deciding to stay longer. I ran the motor for the fridge but it went off soon after the motor was turned off.

We took the dinghy and rowed slowly along the steep cliffs looking into each nook and cranny, and down into the deep water. This was one of the best nature experiences of the trip for Anita.

Sunday evening was again calm as the area is under settled weather.

On Monday morning we motored south, through the narrow gap between a small island and Ithaca, just 4 metres deep. 

We continued on to the south of Ithaca then west towards Cephalonia and the little harbour town of Eufimia. A gentle wind from the south allowed us to drift slowly across and save some petrol. The fridge was happy to be running but an hour or two after arriving went off again.

Ithaca is an amazing island, raw, steep, and green with crystal waters, while at the same time challenging for our little boat as we are not set up to anchor in deep waters.

Cephalonia, the larger neighbour to the west rises to over 1600 m but the mountains are less green without trees. Eufimia was decimated by the 1953 earthquake. What is there now is a pleasant town but here is the first harbour in which we did not want to swim in polluted waters. Not a good start after the magic of Ithaca.