TWO WEEK FAMILY CRUISE

We walked the 10 minutes to the airport terminal from Garitsas Bay, Corfu and waited for the delayed flight. Finally Joanna and Bob appeared and it was agreed to walk 10 minutes to Lidl to stock up with some provisions, then 20 minutes back to the boat.

Bob helped me to take more water from the popular public water taps and to the boat.

For two weeks Bob will do the heavy work on the boat, giving me a rest, lifting the anchor, steering (our auto-pilot is still not working) etc.

Being home, our little boat is full of equipment so the two single quarter berths are not available for sleeping. Our double guest cabin is a tent in the large cockpit but from the start our visitors wanted to sleep under the stars and only once under threat of rain did they use the tent.

With extra crew we can be more adventurous and for them we wanted to give them a wide experience. The first evening we walked around the Old Fort of Corfu Town, but town was not what these nature lovers had come for and we went to Vido Island, close to Corfu Town for the next day.

The swell and threat of rain did not make this a good place for the night so under grey clouds and with swell we sailed 6 miles east to the Albania – Greece border to Ftelias, our “hurricane hole” of flat water and tranquillity for a comfortable night, arriving as darkness was almost upon us.

Each day as Captain I assessed the best plan for wind, waves and comfort and discussed it with the crew. They elected to find more flat sea in nature for the night and we looked in at Pagania (good for a future stop) and on to Valtou, a creek north of Igoumentisa Ferry Port. On the way the wind was good to take the spinnaker from the bag and fly it. It had been in the bag for a few years but with four of us we could put it up and feel the exhilaration. We even sailed off course to make the most of it, then dropped it and returned to our course avoiding the mainland shallows.

It was almost dark when we arrived, and everyone felt comfortable to skinny dip. After that being naked was no shame nor embarrassment and made living in a small space more comfortable. So many yacht crews we see enjoy naturist moments, especially swimming. No more salty wet discomfort of clothes.

We moved on with a few hours sailing to Lakka, on Paxos 

where we rested for two nights, before going south to Mongonisi, where we joined in the Greek dancing at a taverna.

I was carefully watching weather for the right conditions to take the visitors to Two Rocks Bay. After 4 nights on Paxos a strong NW wind gave us an energetic sail there 

and we sheltered in calm, clear water without swell. The visitors exclaimed that this was the best place we had been to. 

We swam, visited the cave by dinghy and paddle board, also a secluded beach. Ashore we enjoyed the small kiosk / café with million dollar views across the bay and to distant Levkas Island. We walked to the next bay which is like a free campsite, and enjoyed a refreshing shower (free at the beach). The little green frogs sit on the pipes to get water.

Finally after topping up our water supplies we motored to Amoudia and into the Acheron River (our second visit) and were lucky to find a pontoon to tie up to, right next to a shower and water tap. The owner of Hirondelle (Hamburg registered yacht) informed us that we could stay a few hours as the “owner” of that berth would return in the evening. 

That allowed us to take a river trip, seeing terrapin, kingfishers, at least three species of dragonfly and hanging nests of the nightingale (bird).

We were told about the mythology that this river is a way for the dead to reach Hades, the Underworld, along with the better known River Stykx. Achilles was also dipped into the water of a tributary which we passed for his protection.

The river was certainly another highlight of the family cruise.

We took advantage of a tap to fill containers of water, and a shower close to our berth. I was happy that the motor would flush with fresh water too as we motored in the river.

We are used to living with careful use, and reuse of water as we don’t carry much. Our guests are used to regular showers and learn to be economical, but it is always a bonus to find a free shower ashore.

Having to the vacate the berth we left the river into a strong swell and afternoon wind 

and sailed hard against the wind to Parga, jut to anchor for the night. Parga turned out to be our worst experience. It is said to be a beautiful old town but full of tourists. Half of the bay is cordoned off as swim zone and tourist boats and water sports carve up the water with no respect for people on anchored boats. As we anchored an angry boatman came abusing us as we were in the “flight path” for him and others taking people to the next bay. We re-anchored under the castle and were happy to leave before the place became alive, and awash, next morning.

Having extra people on board changes some habits. For example Joanna and Bob start the day with coffee so I joined them. They liked to have it with the sweet brioche of which we had bought many as we like it with our daily “coffee and cake” in the afternoon.

Our plan after an early departure from Parga was to sail (and motor) to Petriti (Corfu). 

The winds were light and after about 17 miles we anchored in shallow open water just north of the small ferry port of Levkimmi. Depth was about 4 metres and we were about 200m from the shore. We all needed to cool off so a naked swim was the first priority, then some food.

As usual I give options to our guests as this is their holiday. They dismissed Petriti and wanted to continue back to Vido Island which they love. We caught more wind and had a more energetic sail north than in the morning, before the sun went down and we needed to motor again.

Final hours were spent ashore in Corfu Town, 

accessed from near the fort, enjoying a meal in a back street on a hill, allowing some air to flow in the hot evening, and the last morning returning early to Vido for last swim, paddle etc.  before we returned to Garitsas Bay and walked to the airport for their flight.

Joanna said it was the best ever holiday, and despite the cramped space everyone could relax fully and feel comfortable. I am grateful for their help in working the boat and preparing food. It was a real pleasure to have them on board for what was for us a much more intensive sailing time than we normally have, and most rewarding.

GOING NORTH AND DAMAGE

Having connected up the new solar panels with thanks to Johann from the amazing catamaran NUMBER ONE, and stocked up with fresh provisions and petrol we felt no need to linger in Preveza, which for now seems to be our home port.

We set off with a west wind rising to force 4, later 5, for the 20 miles NW towards Two Rocks Bay where we should find shelter. We enjoyed this lovely spot last year.

Unusually the sea already had one metre waves in the normally calm morning, from the west wind continuing to blow all night, whereas normally it would be flat in the morning from the land breeze.

5 miles north of Preveza we had a metal failure, the vertical bolt connected the port side tiller to the steering arm connecting the tillers. In seconds I took the arm in my free hand as two waves which had passed under the windward hull crashed with force against the leeward hull, and at the same time lifted the dinghy in the davits. In consequence the major weld holding the two parts of the davit together broke, leaving the front of the dinghy in the water with the broken davit arm sitting on it.  I slowed the boat by letting out the sails and step by step took control of the situation. The davit arm with dinghy had ripped open a piece of the fibreglass main beam. 

The only place to sort out repairs was Preveza, so with motor and much reduced sail we limped back, anchored and inspected the damage. We had lost the thwart (seat) of the dinghy and I had seen an orange shape in the water, one of the wooden deflectors from under the bridge deck which stop much of the water being sent through the cockpit drains into the cockpit.

In the evening Teo the fibreglass repair man came to see the damage saying it is a big job, the boat will need to be out of the water and that it is no problem to continue sailing for the time being. I prepared a first notification to the insurance company of our pending claim.

Next morning we set off again. 

The swell was minimal and in lighter winds, sometimes with motor we sailed to Two Rocks Bay. There was some swell coming into the Bay despite the main flow of sea and wind passing outside.

Next day it was uncomfortable but we did not want to go against the weather, so lived with the perpetual motion which became less by evening.

Waking the second morning the swell was rolling in again so we soon departed with a south wind to the next Bay to the north for a swim stop. It was calm, but we did not find a suitable place to anchor in the shallow bay because of many rocks 3 or 4 metres down. We continued to our goal of the summer, to enter the Archeron River, in Greek mythology one of the rivers leading to Hades, the Underworld, through which the dead must pass.

The river is narrow and flowing to the sea, and has a 2 knot speed limit, so we edged forward past the fishing boat quay and village past yachts tied to an old distorted boardwalk, and some tied just to trees through the reeds, looking for a place to tie up. Without someone ashore to take and secure a line it was really not possible so we crept upstream enjoying the nature. Ahead was a slightly wider place with slipway and notice that only with permit can motor boats continue further. With a challenging maneuver we turned without touching the branches on either side and drifted back to the sea with just enough speed to steer by.

It was indeed  a beautiful and peaceful place and we wondered if we should have tied up to a yacht already moored. Clear of the river mouth we turned into the shallow bay and anchored just outside the swim zone for a swim in the water feeling much cooler than south of Levkas. For a few hours we had a gentle south wind so decided to use it to sail west to Paxos, until four miles away the wind headed us as predicted by the forecast. .

Monganissi offers us a shallow anchorage which no-one else will use, except open day boats, and sheltered from each wind direction and we enjoyed three nights sleeping on flat water.

I am always interested in the other boats around me, especially the multihulls. One catamaran with Dutch flag anchored close to us and I was feeling this must be a design of Erik Lerouge, a French designer who used to sail over the attend our MOCRA rallies in Cornwall in the ‘80s. The curved forward beam is his style. I took the paddleboard and coming close spoke with the French owner, who confirmed my identification. He told me it is a K12.9 model. As we spoke another Lerouge design came to anchor nearby, Igloo, apparently built in Lithuania.

One evening we walked the two miles of so to Port Gaios where many large yachts seek quay space to the in the midst of the local restaurants and small shops. We were lucky to find live music at Bar Atheni, and sat for into the late hours enjoying the Greek singer, guitar player and double bass player. She sang in many languages. We tried their wi-fi but like many other places it did not work properly. Port Gaios is an attractive place but we prefer the quiet anchorage at Mogonissi we had also enjoyed last year. One evening we enjoyed a pizza and wine at the waterside, very close to our boat at Carnayo taverna. Owner Dimitri is very welcoming and the music they play is always good to listen to.

Most afternoons there are strong NW winds especially blowing through the gaps between the islands. We picked a day with some west wind to cross to Corfu and enjoyed a good sail after a slow start until we reached the lee of Corfu Island. 

Pahi 42 MOTHER OCEAN -

With lighter winds we continued up this shallow coast turning west as the sun came low and anchoring at Petriti. 

This fishing village has low key tourism and shallow waters to anchor. We know where there is a tap to fill our portable water containers.

Despite being protected from NW winds, and enjoying a peaceful night there last year we rolled with swell from the side curving into the shallow bay. Seeking more comfort for the second night we anchored further out but the wind was not dying for the evening and it was really uncomfortable. 

At 11 pm we weighed anchor and re-anchored right inside the protection of the port close to the dinghy jetty, in just one metre of water. No-one else would anchor there and our world immediately became calm.

We moved out next morning, enjoying the bay and paddleboard, and again moved inside just before dark as all the other yachts rolled and pitched further out.

The small Center Market supplied bread, some fruit and some tasty tomatoes. We don’t find many tasty tomatoes or cucumbers in Greece, mostly the ones grown with chemicals.

It was time to move north again, and with a few days in hand, before the family join us, we chose a remote inlet right by the border of Albania and mainland Greece, which satisfied our desire for flat calm water, green trees and the bonus of herons, egrets and the wonderful kingfisher.

One farmer has cattle there. There is one holiday home, which the occupants left after the weekend, and we were free to enjoy the naturist lifestyle most of the time. As evening comes we put on long sleeves and trousers to minimise mosquito bites of course.

We enjoyed three nights in this forgotten paradise, without internet before sailing slowly across the six miles to the little island of Vido just off Corfu town.

Finally we sailed to the large Garitsas Bay south of the Fort ready for the family arrival to the airport 10 minutes’ walk away, and a chance to stock up at Lidl.