TWO WEEK FAMILY CRUISE

We walked the 10 minutes to the airport terminal from Garitsas Bay, Corfu and waited for the delayed flight. Finally Joanna and Bob appeared and it was agreed to walk 10 minutes to Lidl to stock up with some provisions, then 20 minutes back to the boat.

Bob helped me to take more water from the popular public water taps and to the boat.

For two weeks Bob will do the heavy work on the boat, giving me a rest, lifting the anchor, steering (our auto-pilot is still not working) etc.

Being home, our little boat is full of equipment so the two single quarter berths are not available for sleeping. Our double guest cabin is a tent in the large cockpit but from the start our visitors wanted to sleep under the stars and only once under threat of rain did they use the tent.

With extra crew we can be more adventurous and for them we wanted to give them a wide experience. The first evening we walked around the Old Fort of Corfu Town, but town was not what these nature lovers had come for and we went to Vido Island, close to Corfu Town for the next day.

The swell and threat of rain did not make this a good place for the night so under grey clouds and with swell we sailed 6 miles east to the Albania – Greece border to Ftelias, our “hurricane hole” of flat water and tranquillity for a comfortable night, arriving as darkness was almost upon us.

Each day as Captain I assessed the best plan for wind, waves and comfort and discussed it with the crew. They elected to find more flat sea in nature for the night and we looked in at Pagania (good for a future stop) and on to Valtou, a creek north of Igoumentisa Ferry Port. On the way the wind was good to take the spinnaker from the bag and fly it. It had been in the bag for a few years but with four of us we could put it up and feel the exhilaration. We even sailed off course to make the most of it, then dropped it and returned to our course avoiding the mainland shallows.

It was almost dark when we arrived, and everyone felt comfortable to skinny dip. After that being naked was no shame nor embarrassment and made living in a small space more comfortable. So many yacht crews we see enjoy naturist moments, especially swimming. No more salty wet discomfort of clothes.

We moved on with a few hours sailing to Lakka, on Paxos 

where we rested for two nights, before going south to Mongonisi, where we joined in the Greek dancing at a taverna.

I was carefully watching weather for the right conditions to take the visitors to Two Rocks Bay. After 4 nights on Paxos a strong NW wind gave us an energetic sail there 

and we sheltered in calm, clear water without swell. The visitors exclaimed that this was the best place we had been to. 

We swam, visited the cave by dinghy and paddle board, also a secluded beach. Ashore we enjoyed the small kiosk / café with million dollar views across the bay and to distant Levkas Island. We walked to the next bay which is like a free campsite, and enjoyed a refreshing shower (free at the beach). The little green frogs sit on the pipes to get water.

Finally after topping up our water supplies we motored to Amoudia and into the Acheron River (our second visit) and were lucky to find a pontoon to tie up to, right next to a shower and water tap. The owner of Hirondelle (Hamburg registered yacht) informed us that we could stay a few hours as the “owner” of that berth would return in the evening. 

That allowed us to take a river trip, seeing terrapin, kingfishers, at least three species of dragonfly and hanging nests of the nightingale (bird).

We were told about the mythology that this river is a way for the dead to reach Hades, the Underworld, along with the better known River Stykx. Achilles was also dipped into the water of a tributary which we passed for his protection.

The river was certainly another highlight of the family cruise.

We took advantage of a tap to fill containers of water, and a shower close to our berth. I was happy that the motor would flush with fresh water too as we motored in the river.

We are used to living with careful use, and reuse of water as we don’t carry much. Our guests are used to regular showers and learn to be economical, but it is always a bonus to find a free shower ashore.

Having to the vacate the berth we left the river into a strong swell and afternoon wind 

and sailed hard against the wind to Parga, jut to anchor for the night. Parga turned out to be our worst experience. It is said to be a beautiful old town but full of tourists. Half of the bay is cordoned off as swim zone and tourist boats and water sports carve up the water with no respect for people on anchored boats. As we anchored an angry boatman came abusing us as we were in the “flight path” for him and others taking people to the next bay. We re-anchored under the castle and were happy to leave before the place became alive, and awash, next morning.

Having extra people on board changes some habits. For example Joanna and Bob start the day with coffee so I joined them. They liked to have it with the sweet brioche of which we had bought many as we like it with our daily “coffee and cake” in the afternoon.

Our plan after an early departure from Parga was to sail (and motor) to Petriti (Corfu). 

The winds were light and after about 17 miles we anchored in shallow open water just north of the small ferry port of Levkimmi. Depth was about 4 metres and we were about 200m from the shore. We all needed to cool off so a naked swim was the first priority, then some food.

As usual I give options to our guests as this is their holiday. They dismissed Petriti and wanted to continue back to Vido Island which they love. We caught more wind and had a more energetic sail north than in the morning, before the sun went down and we needed to motor again.

Final hours were spent ashore in Corfu Town, 

accessed from near the fort, enjoying a meal in a back street on a hill, allowing some air to flow in the hot evening, and the last morning returning early to Vido for last swim, paddle etc.  before we returned to Garitsas Bay and walked to the airport for their flight.

Joanna said it was the best ever holiday, and despite the cramped space everyone could relax fully and feel comfortable. I am grateful for their help in working the boat and preparing food. It was a real pleasure to have them on board for what was for us a much more intensive sailing time than we normally have, and most rewarding.