Tuesday 27 July 2021

Ormos Varko, Ormos Frixia and wasps

 Two days at Varko Bay turned to three then four. We needed the break. Nights were calm, afternoons windy, the norm in the Ionian region.

We observe more German yachts than other foreigners. We have known more boats hereabouts many charter boats sit idle as Boris and other "leaders" play with the plandemic thing making travel difficult. 









A few Greek tourists are at the long beach. An 85.5 m superyacht Sun Ray's anchored at the edge of the bay.










Insects have been a feature of this trip. Not many mosquitos nor flies  but ants are in the boat and we eradicate them day by day. The island of Meganisi is known as a wasp HQ. In two previous summers we have been bothered by them to the point of leaving an anchorage when they get too much for us. This summer they seem to be everywhere in the Inland Sea area. 

I am careful not to get attacked by avoiding them but have had four stings now. One was around my toes. I did not see and moved one toe against the next with painful result. For three or four days despite treatment my toe and part of foot was swollen.


Another was trapped between my leg and a cushion as I moved a heavy water bottle, again swelling and discomfort for days.

I felt nothing but one stung my elbow which also needed a few days to recover.

After swimming I was drying myself and threw one end of my towel over my shoulder not seeing one near my neck. That gave me the most longer term discomfort with debilitating effect.

Anita did not escape either with one on her leg.

They come seeing moisture. Putting fruit scraps on a plate can focus them away from the cockpit but they have been a real nuisance. They leave at dusk though, also they fly back to land when we leave their territory. 

We love the view of the mountains to the East of this bay, and changing light especially at evening. 

Finally we weighed anchor and gently sailed across the sea to Ormas Frixia on the East side of Levkas island, a favourite nature spot.

Largyalo was anchored here and Petra paid us a visit before they left the next day. 






Being close to Nidri small rental boats anchor for swimming before moving on. A large black power boat RIB came in and spoke with one of the boats. I sensed that the four men were looking to find  somewhere to moor a large ship.

Later the RIB returned, set a line around a rock and the 39.5m "superyacht" arrived.

She was flying a Banana Republic flag of registration, also carrying a small Ukrainian flag indicating the nationality. 

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At 10.30 in the evening two female singers started up with mics and backing music. I think they finished about 4 am. The singing was good  but we did not sleep much. 

Thursday 22 July 2021

Going south after climbing the mast

 Winching Anita up the mast to retrieve the main halyard is a job for calm water. The small winch which for me is difficult to service makes this hard work.

She sits in a bosun's chair, helping with her legs, feet and arms when possible.
My other objective was a visual inspection of mast, spreaders and rigging to prevent future problems from failure and possible dismasting.
Anita's objective was to take a damp cloth to clean two years of dirt from the aluminium "
stick".




Job done we set off a little later than I had planned to reach the open sea. To get out we need to pass in an almost westerly direction against the west wind. To the casual observer the water is wide but it is also shallow, hence the buoyed and dredged channel. The cost of leaving later was that the afternoon wind had already raised short waves against us so with our small 9.9 hp motor and almost against the wind our progress is slow.

Having very shallow draught we can leave the marked channel with care, and sometime had less than 4 metres of water below us. Once I felt it was safe we turned south and raced across the shallow bay under full mainsail and reefed genoa

Our goal was the narrow canal separating the mainland from the mountainous island of Levkada (Levkas). Before entering the canal we must pass the swinging ferry, aka bridge which opens on the hour. Arriving at 13.45 we milled around with about ten other boats, keeping head to wind at slowest possible speed.









The siren at 14.00 indicated that the road traffic will stop and our way will be open. Only the first couple of boats can see the action around the corner. Then we pass through in procession avoiding boats leaving the canal.

Levkas Town Quay and marina are full of boats including many charter boats which are idle this year with travel restrictions.  I observe no yachts anchored between the town and marina for the first time. Has anchoring here been prohibited?

Our procession falls apart as some boats go to the town, some for fuel and some traverse the canal. It is very hot without shade. 

At the south end of the canal we turn to a large patch of shallow water to the west and drop anchor in about 2m of water. We set up the awning and have a swim to cool off. We have spent nights anchored here before or after the canal . Perhaps we do the same?

Ashore many cars gathered and well-dressed people arrived. A Greek wedding? Some music. 

Late afternoon often brings some wind gusts and we were shocked by the severity of a couple. Shall we use the wind to go south, or rest until tomorrow morning when it will probably be calm and we will have to motor.

We chose to use the wind and setting only the genoa, the large sail at the front of the boat, we enjoyed the freedom of sailing again. We passed close to Largyalo again, which had entered the canal at 16.00 and anchored on the east side for their swim stop.



Passing a couple of possible anchorages we continued, finally under power towards the wind to Ormos Varko, and anchored in about 4m of clear water. 




Thursday 15 July 2021

Gulf of Amvrakia

 After shopping the afternoon wind is up and we raise anchor from Preveza to sail into the Gulf of Amvrakia the inland Sea which is about 20 miles long, shallow and full of marine life.






The replacement autopilot is ready but as we gain speed in the gusty conditions it is hard to set it up so I steer the familiar course by hand. We come to a favourite quiet bay, Ormos Ay Markou and anchor at the west end in 2 metres of water, well protected from all but east winds.

It is time to chill out after the frantic past days and catch up with some little jobs.










Here we saw again the iridescent kingfisher bird, always a thrill.

We swim a few times a day to cool off. Friends Bart and Anne-Marie anchored close by in Pico" and we spent an evening on their Maldives catamaran with them.






After 3 nights we motored in the still morning the mile to Vonitsa, anchoring in front of the town to buy food. This time I had the autopilot set up properly. 


Stocked up we motored round Koukouvitsa Island to the sheltered Bay to the west of Vonitsa. Here we can find good drinking water for out tanks and bottles but the main taps are turned off, perhaps vandalised? However the supply to the island's little church is still on. We managed to shower at the tap as well as filling the bottles. A walk around the island gave us a beautiful sunset.

Tony and Ann on Dazcat 920 Razzmatazz dropped by for a drink with their flask if chilled white wine. Another day we went to them to look over their boat. 








Catamarans are popular these days for cruising. Apart from the Lagoon types which have sacrificed in later models looks for more accommodation we saw an earlier Catana 41 Frida and met Ralf and Nina ashore. Nina has lower leg in plaster cast so can't swim for now. They have plans to sail to Costa Rica this winter.

Another boat we have seen before and admire is the older style Outremer 42, which left the same morning as we did.





Before leaving for Preveza we raised the mainsail, only to find it drop down. The halyard had disconnected from the head of the sail needed retrieval. 

We sailed under genoa back to Preveza, passing Largyalo going the other way.