There is much we have come to love about the western side of
Greece, both the mainland and it’s wonderful islands in the Ionian Sea, with a
rich choice of wonderful anchorages.
Since last year one river has fascinated us and tempted us,
especially after seeing videos posted in YouTube.
This year we entered the narrow mouth of the Acheron River
at Ammoudia steering Apataki carefully past the fishing boats, restaurants and
a few yachts to the limit of permitted navigation at a slightly wider point
near to a slipway. It was a challenge to judge the current and to avoid contact
with the tree branches on each side as we made a three point turn, possible
only because we can turn the outboard motor.
Coming back downstream with the current was another
challenge as a yacht was in the narrow channel and there is little room to
spare. Being no available place to tie alongside we had the leave the river and
we came to the shallow bay of Ammoudia to anchor for a swim before continuing
our journey north.
We had already fallen in love with the river and a few weeks
later with Joanna and Bob on board we entered again and were lucky to find a
space to tie up to a wooden pontoon. The German owner of another yacht told us
that we were good there for the day and that the owner of that space would
return in the evening. Wonderful news!!
This allowed us to take one of the tourist boats up the
river beyond the point of permitted navigation without a licence or permit. The
old Greek Captain spoke no English but stopped at a few places to show us for
example the hanging nest of the nightingale (bird), a terrapin and other points
of interest. We spotted a few kingfishers (birds) which live at river banks.
We went about 3 km up river passing a few kayaks, rented
upstream for the downward paddle. Some of the people were standing where a tributary
flowed into the main river. We learned later that this was where Achilles was immersed
in the river by his mother Thetis to give him protection from damage from
spears, swords etc. except for the famous heel which must have been held for
the ceremony.
At one point the boatman started pulling some small branches of a
tree which broke off, then he continued
up-stream and did the same again. This time the branches held and I understood
his action. As he held the stern towards the tree, the bow came round with the
current and we were soon pointing down-stream !!
The river is famous in Greek mythology as a gateway to Hades, the
Underworld. The 5 rivers of the realm of Hades, and their symbolic meanings, are Acheron (the river of sorrow, or woe), Cocytus (lamentation), Phlegethon
(fire), Lethe (oblivion), and Styx (hate),
Located in the Underworld, the
River Styx serves as a barrier separating the world of the living from the
world of the dead.
After some food shopping we returned to the boat, relaxing and
taking on water from an adjacent tap. There was also a shower under the tree
and we were happy to use it.
At about 5 pm were
motored out of the river towards a fresh westerly breeze.
This created classic
wind over tide conditions and some small waves at the shallow entrance bar,
only 2 metres deep there. The sea conditions were uncomfortable as we sailed
away as close to the wind as we could.
Acheron River was not forgotten. We made a third visit, this
time about 20 km up-stream by car having packed away the boat for winter as we
were on our way to Igoumenitsa to take a ferry to Bari, Italy.
We came to the village of Glyki and continued a short
distance along the river to Acheron Springs.
Here a few tourists and locals were enjoying riverside
tavernas, riding horses, taking a ride down-stream in rafts (in regular clothes
without helmets or life jackets – this is not white water rafting) or just
walking or sitting on the river beaches.
We asked a man selling honey where it is possible to pitch a
tent as there are signs showing places where it is not permitted. He pointed to
a spot just between him and the river and said it would be good there, and that
he could keep an eye on the tent.
We were camping just 10 m from the cold flowing river,
sheltered from the hot sun by trees.
We followed the footpath up-stream through trees and
imagined that in winter the deeper water would wash right over here. Further on
the track enters the riverbed and continues up-stream between tall cliffs, the
river canyon. Acheron Springs is named because there are many springs entering
the river here, from below and above the September water level.
This is a truly beautiful and magical place. The water feels
freezing cold. It is actually about 5 or 6 degrees Celcius, but there are
differences which can be felt. The coldest is where the spring water enters the
river. We walked to the first point where the water level in the pool would
exceed leg length and the torso would enter the water. Many people stop at this
point and we did the same, not being prepared on this first exploration.
We returned to the tent and enjoyed the tranquillity and
temperature under the trees. Later we walked to explore more.
Except for the sounds of the fast flowing water, the night
was quiet, except for an occasion screech from an owl in the trees just above
us.
The next day we relaxed and decided to stay a second night.
The honey seller gave us a melon, and borrowed our large knife to cut one up to
share with some of the tourist guides. The cold river served as a fridge for
us.
On our last morning in Greece, before a midnight ferry, we
dressed for the river, just swim clothes and a small waterproof bag, and shoes
for walking in water. We had no specific goal except to see how far we wanted to
go. We arrived more quickly to the first deep pool as we were not distracted
taking many photos this time. It seemed that the water level was a few
centimetres lower today and we passed through the first COLD challenge. In the
low temperature of water feet and toes soon feel numb.
Continuing over new ground we noticed the canyon becoming
narrower and we came to the first deep pool where it was not even possible to
walk with water up to the neck. After taking a few deep breaths I braved the
almost freezing water and swam against the current with the waterproof bag. We
were speaking with a young Greek local couple who gave us useful information.
I reached a few rocks, in the sun, where I could remove the
phone from the bag and prepare to make video of Anita overcoming her fear of
the challenge, and finally when ready, swimming to join me. When she came out
her teeth were chattering with the cold and she could not speak properly. I did
not think to make a video at first and when I asked her to say a few words her
voice was already more normal. She was so thrilled to have undertaken this
challenge and overcome it. She only learned to swim recently.
We continued up passing through another swim pool and as the
canyon became much more narrow spoke
with someone who told us that we were about half way to a bridge, the way ahead
is much more difficult with boulders and it would take another half an hour to
go there. Being cold already we took the good decision to return.
The cold water is a challenge but the body feels so good
afterwards.
We love this place.
We had already packed away the tent and eventually drove
back to the coast to Ammoudia, the mouth of the river, and took a final swim in
the Ionian Sea in the bay, followed by using a beach shower.
We went to a restaurant alongside
the river to enjoy the special menu of fish, salad, chips and a glass of wine
for 10 euros each, cheaper than most places we had seen (and not eaten at)
during the summer.
In darkness we drove to Igoumentisa to check in to the ferry.
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