FAIR WINDS, GOOD SAILING, TWO ROCK BAY NATURE AND PREVEZA, 18
TO 22 JULY, DAYS 85 TO 89
Had we found a place at the town quay of Mourtos on Tuesday
we would have woken to uncomfortable swell as the north wind was blowing in to
the bay. It was forecast but I am not always observing forecasts to come true.
As it was we did wake early and feel the motion of the waves to the boat but with
more comfort than at the quay which acts to bounce back the waves. It was the
biggest test so far for the new anchor but with all 15 m of chain along the sea
bed the anchor did not have to work too hard. Catamarans traditionally use a
mix of chain and warp to keep weight down, but I don’t observe it with the new
generation of Lagoon and similar floating homes. I wanted to be away from that
swell and wind but it seemed important too to make the long row to town against
wind and sea to charge 6 appliances while enjoying a freshly squeezed mixed
fruit juice at a clean café / ice cream parlour behind the harbour front. I
went again to the farthest supermarket to buy a water melon and other things.
Rowing back was a little less hard and we soon had the anchor
up and motored towards the 2 m deep sandbar between the islands to head south.
The colours of water and of the trees are so beautiful around these Sivota
Islands.
We unfurled the genoa and soon it was pulling us along at
around 4 knots with wind almost astern. We steered to round the distant point
passing magnificent tree and mountain scenery.
Finally we could steer towards our destination, the course
guiding us to the gap between two prominent “rocks”. The afternoon wind was
building and Apataki was surfing down waves making almost 8 knots at times.
Being busy steering (auto pilot not helping us this year) I could not spend
much time below at the navigation area and became confused about the entrance
to Two Rock Bay. We reduced sail and turned to starboard, spotting a small bay
with camping, then, where the GPS warned of dangers, saw masts and the bay. We
came in slowly having not seen a chart of the bay and anchored in a quiet
paradise with clear water. Expecting a big blow on Thursday I put out the
trusted larger anchor and heavier chain.
Checking the chart plotter afterwards I could see that the
waypoint quoted in the pilot book could not be reached on our course of 120 degrees
without passing some land and more to the point the whole Bay is shown as
danger of rocks, and is not named by Garmin which caused some concern on the
hidden approach from the north. From the south it is very obvious.
On Thursday we felt no need to go ashore but rowed the dinghy
around the bay, to the Two Rocks, tiny beaches and into a small cave. It is all
so amazing. We had no internet connection and just enjoy being there. The
simple pleasures of life are the best. This is a place to really forget the
city world and be at one with nature, shedding even clothes when away from the
beach area. No mask is needed. We can be in our true essence.
On Wednesday after swim and eating we took the dinghy to the
beach with computer etc. to charge things at the “monkey house” café we could
see in the trees. A Greek man with grand-children objected to us leaving the
dinghy close to where they lay on the beach and pointed to a place by rocks to
the side. I moved it there and there was not enough room so left the painter
tied around a rock and the dinghy parallel to the water’s edge but on return we
found it dirty with sand. We experienced similar in Sicily where children had obviously
jumped in and out and parents do not correct them.
Aside from this second unpleasantness from Greek people (the
first was a lady swimmer objecting to us anchoring near the fort at Corfu Town)
the situation ashore was idyllic. The café was just a kiosk but the pallet
furniture and shade made this a highly desirable place to have a coffee and be
barefoot. Kris the owner allowed us to take one socket in the kiosk to charge
things and we went walking to explore. This was Thursday and we were ready to
explore ashore.
We found the next bay, like a large informal campsite, which
we had seen on the way down, exposed to the west winds and swell. A small river
flows into the bay. That is usually good for a fresh water wash, but there were
showers dotted around the shoreline here.
An old man approached us to sell us figs from his bag. It
seemed that he wanted 4 euros for the whole bag but as we tried to buy part his
price increases went out of hand. We walked away but he followed and we bought 10
very ripe juicy figs for 2 euros. DELICIOUS.
We had walked around the bay at the water’s edge but returned
by a small road where we found a lady selling fruit and vegetables from a small
piece of land. We bought some things and headed back towards our bay. We kept
seeing another old man sitting in the shade of the green trees and realised he
was the goatherd. From time to time he would move on with his goats.
This is an area of wetlands and we saw the head of a beaver
in a river with long grasses. He disappeared when he saw us.
Back at the “monkey house” kiosk we bought more drinks and
enjoyed the view over the bay as the computer and power back charged a little
more.
We stayed three nights at this paradise and noted that most
yachts were private, the charter boats going to nearby Paxos. The nightly
population of our large bay was barely 10% of the yachts anchored in Lakka for
example.
We enjoyed the calm Friday morning in Two Rock Bay waiting
for the forecast afternoon wind to sail on to Preveza 20 miles away. We motored
out in light wind at about 15.00 then sailed slowly before losing the wind.
Finally it came and we had a lovely sail for the last 10 miles and then on
against the current into the estuary and anchorage of Preveza.
On Saturday morning we motored round to the town quay and
came bows to to the Town Quay. This is not so easy as we had to anchor using
the new lighter anchor paying out astern from the bow and attaching the rope
aft, while putting two mooring lines ashore, with help from two strangers. We
had prime position, right by an electricity and water supply, and looking up a
narrow street to the little church tower.
We connected power and started the long charge of the ship
batteries, and of all our appliances. This is a lovely atmospheric little town
and we started to explore.
In the days of this blog post we had not only enjoyed
paradise but had the best sailing since we arrived in Greece.
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