CALDAS da RAINHA and OBIDOS

We saw parts of Caldas da Rainha as we came to the parking area. It is known for hot springs for health, and Royal patronage, but it is not possible to go to a Termas today for leisure and relaxation.

We moved on 8 km to Óbidos, to find we were on the main tourist trail again. Camper parker was easy with a designated area and a short walk to the Town Gate. This beautiful fortified town has history back to the Romans, later Moors, and it became the Town of the Queens of Portugal. There is such a lovely atmosphere in the charming streets. 

Four music students from the music Conservatory of Óbidos were busking to raise money for their tear end trip and we sat to enjoy a few songs. The young girl singer in particular had a wonderful voice and we imagine that she was singing some traditional songs as passers-by were singing as they walked.

 Amazing second hand bookshop. Shelves are all from fruit boxes.

We enjoyed local cooking in the afternoon.

Wanting to make more distance we drove on in the late afternoon. 

Here Anita's crochet snowflakes decorating the inside of our tiny home.

COIMBRA and SILVER COAST- FIGUERA da FOZ and NAZARé

Coimbra, a riverfront city in central Portugal and the country’s former capital, is home to a preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra. We wanted to pass through Coimbra, but in particular shelter from heavy rain at a camping site, with the comfort of electricity, allowing battery charging on a cloudy day, extra lights without draining the battery, use of our small electric heater (400 watts gives comfort in out tiny home), use of the blender to make delicious green smoothies each day, and of course take on water, empty grey and black tanks and enjoy hot showers.

The rain came and went on the afternoon we arrived and next morning started bright and sunny. Anita went for a long run, and once we were ready to go we both felt that we should return another time to the city and not go exploring now. We therefore headed west to Figuera da Foz passing much wetland on the way. 

We have been noticing large road signs blown down by wind, and now we started to see trees blown over or with trunks broken and remembered that Hurricane Leslie hit Portugal in October leaving a trail of destruction.

It was good to be back at the Atlantic Coast, and specifically the famous Silver Coast of Portugal which extends from Espinho in the North to Ericeira in the South. 

At the coast we are warned about regulations regarding campers, but not advised details. Everywhere are signs showing that we are not welcome in car parks close to the coast, or even restricted from driving in some places where delivery vans of the same size are free to enter.

After more rain showers at Figuera do Foz we walked along the seafront and saw a partial sunset through mostly cloudy horizon.

Next morning we drove south picking up a beautiful coast road passing beaches and villages 

before arriving at Nazaré, again being welcomed by the restriction signs for campers. Nazaré is a big wave surfing location on the world surfing tour. With light SE winds the sea was calm but some swell found momentum and four surfers, with attendant jetskis waited patiently for a few short runs.

We came down from the hill of the lighthouse and stopped in the town at sea level for a coffee and to see the sunset, much better than the day before. 

In fact the weather was perfect for December, warm and sunny.

We drove to Caldas da Rainha to park for the night, needing to make some miles each day to make our 26 December rendezvous in the south west.

PORTO, DOURO RIVER, ENTRE OS RIOS, SERRA MONTEMURO and VISEU

After just two busy weeks in Malta, emotionally busy too worrying about the condition of Anita’s mother, and who in the family is willing to spend time caring for her over the next few weeks, we took an early flight back to Porto, Portugal’s second city, famous for the Port wine. Living in a tiny islands like Malta it is not unusual to meet friends at the airport or on the flight. I had seen Fritz post photos of Porto a few weeks ago, and he was sitting just a row behind Anita. I was of course in a different row, the policy of Ryanair to blackmail passengers to pay extra to sit together.

We walked from the airport to the Parking and collected the keys for our “home”. After just two weeks the battery state of the vehicle and caravan batteries should be good, but I had forgotten to switch off the caravan system, and it was making a worrying noise, meaning the battery was low. The vehicle started, and I reset the system, knowing that driving would restore the charge.

Our goal for the first day was to drive along part of the Douro River Valley, described as one of the top 10 things to do in Portugal. 

We were not disappointed and after 59 kilometres we parked alongside the water at Entre Os Rios, where the Paiva river meets the Douro. It was the location of a bad accident In April 2001 when the Hintze Ribeiro bridge collapsed taking 59 people to their deaths in a bus and cars. The collapse was found to be the result of extracting sand from near the supports of the bridge, weakening it, despite warnings from experts.

All was calm for us, and the damp air brought fog to the rivers.

Next day we crossed the river by a newer bridge and followed a slow and winding road with amazing views of the river and hill sides where many grapes grow. 

From Cinfães we came inland and started climbing up to 1262m on the road pass of Serra de Montemuro, the peak being at 1382m (4534 ft). To each side was a wonderful view. 

From there we came down through different terrain to Viseu, and enjoyed a walk around the historic centre as darkness fell. Christmas lights and Christmas Market brought life to this vibrant place.

We are always happy to find a town which welcomes visitors by motor caravan and provides a few parking places and facilities to drop off grey and black water, thank you Viseu. May other towns follow your good example.