ALMERIA COAST – South East SPAIN Mojacar, Garrucha and Vera

ALMERIA COAST – South East SPAIN
Mojacar, Garrucha and Vera

Still home to fishermen, farmers and shepherds, the three towns of Mojacar, Garrucha and Vera have become a popular destination for tourists and for relocation, whether to retire, or to seek a new working life in a beautiful climate.

Situated on the south east coast of Spain in the province of Almeria, the most eastern province in the autonomous region of Andalucia, the area enjoys the best weather in Spain, and indeed in Europe. Inland is an area officially recognised as Europe’s only desert. The famous 1970 spaghetti “western” films, starring Clint Eastwood were filmed there. Indeed the film set is now a tourist attraction “Mini Hollywood”. The regional capital city of Almeria, 90 kilometres to the south, has many historic features, popular beaches, and ferry port for destinations in North Africa

The three towns have their own character. Mojacar Pueblo, on the hill, had become a deserted village until hippies and artists found it and moved in during the 1960s. The unpolluted air gives that intensity of light and colour, loved by artists. The pueblo was built on the hill to protect the locals from attacks by the Moors of North Africa. The whole region of Andalucia , being close to Morroco and Algeria, has strong Moorish influence, the greatest treasures being the Alhambra and Generalife palaces in Granada. The annual “Moors and Christians” festival sees the locals dressing up and parading through the streets in a three day celebration.

The long coastal strip of Mojacar Playa, was established in more recent times and is a popular holiday location with many bars and restaurants on the edge of the beach. To the south is the Cabo de Gata natural park, a protected area of outstanding natural beauty. Most night-life is found in Mojacar Playa.

Just north of Mojacar lies the fishing town of Garrucha, renowned for the “gambas” – prawns, and boasts many fish restaurants, some just metres from the modern fish market. It is also a small commercial port exporting “yeso” (gypsum) to the world. The port has recently been extended to provide more yacht berths. Two of the long narrow streets come to life each Friday with the local market, attracting visitors from far and wide, to buy fresh fruit and vegetables and much more. Almeria is Spain’s major province of fruit and vegetable production, mostly in controlled conditions under plastic. The plastic “city” has become one of the most visible landmarks on Earth from Space.

Once the sun has gone down locals and visitors take a paseo in the cool of the evening along the length of the seafront. In summer, the Spanish rarely leave the beach before sunset, while the northern European visitors are already eating in the many restaurants.

Inland lies the third town of the triangle. Vera remains a traditional Spanish town, which has thrived from the development of it’s coastal strip, bringing tourists, and foreigners seeking a paradise to live in. Saturday is the market day, but enjoy a coffee in the small central plaza any day and watch the world walk by. Vera Playa, Vera’s coastal strip has developed in the last decade, but the economic crisis brought this to a timely halt. There are now many homes and hotels, serviced by restaurants and supermarkets, but Vera Playa remains a quiet area.

A good length of beach is officially designated “naturist”, and behind it is a whole village of attractive communities, oases of homes surrounded by well maintained garden, community swimming pools, grass and a calm tranquil energy. This is Spain’s premier naturist zone, attracting people from far and wide.

Many residents are grateful to the economic crisis for bringing to a halt excessive coastal development to this area of unique character, as in other parts of Spain. It has become a buyers market, with many properties for sale at bargain prices.

The flat coastal zone rises to north and south with a scenic, undulating and twisting coast road. Hills and mountains can be seen in all directions looking to the interior. This is an area of beauty and tranquillity, and an opportunity to enjoy the best of the Mediterranean life style and climate, for retirees and young families alike.

The airport of Almeria is 45 minutes away with daily connections to the main international hubs of Madrid and Barcelona, and to the national network of regional airports. Driving in Spain is a pleasure with miles of good open roads.

Enjoy the famous wines of Spain, at supermarket or bodega prices. Enjoy the extra virgin olive oil, cured meats, large salad tomatoes, avocados, almonds, melons, oranges, and seafood. Take a drive in spring time through valleys of almond trees in pink blossom.

There is a thriving English speaking community, but what pleasure to make Spanish friends and immerse into the lifestyle of siesta, of meals eaten at an unhurried pace in the fresh air, of staying on the beach until the sun goes down. Most shops open at 10am. Manaña rules. The shops close at 2pm, then reopen from 5pm to 8pm. Life is taken at an enjoyable pace which many have forgotten working in cities. Banks open at 8.30am.

Come once and you will want to come again. Then dreams start, dreams of moving to live in this paradise. With more internet based business more people can relocate here and have the income they need. The cost of living is certainly lower than in many western European countries.

To buy a house, or to buy a car, one should register as a resident, or as a non-resident (under 183 days a year). Compared with much of western Europe the cost of living is low.

Take advantage of eating out at lunchtime, from 2pm, at many restaurants offering the “menu del dia” package. Many of these offer three course meals, with a bottle of wine between two people, which costs under 10 euros per head. See you soon. Hasta luego!

Copyright David Millner
16 September 2010