Strong gusts, the water leak, concert in Roman amphitheatre and lift out

 After busy and enjoyable days with family we were alone again on the boat and were in no hurry to move anywhere. We stayed at anchor in Tranquil Bay opposite to Nydri and went ashore a couple of times for food shopping, a coffee and to explore more of Nydri.

We rose early one morning to walk the hour to Nydri Waterfall. In August there is not much water but the walk is very pretty. It is important to be there early to avoid crowds in the small valley. 

Afterwards we sat under the trees at the nice cafe where the road ends.

We moved again to Fraxia Bay, only returning after 4 nights because we needed food again, despite the fact that with almost gale force gusts of wind forecast that would have been the most comfortable place to be in shelter.

Before leaving Fraxia one of the rental motor boats anchored too close then hit our anchor rope and secondary bridle rope breaking the latter. In panic the Russian driver was lucky not to make damage to our boat as he gave full power. Some think they handle like cars which is not true.

Anchoring again in Tranquil Bay in about 8m of water I was not going to leave the boat while the wind was getting up. A 37’ Dutch yacht dragged anchor onto us and then moved away, and I did the same as I did not feel secure there, close to boats and wrecks near astern of us. My choice was in less that 2m of water in the lee of the land and close to nature and the shore protecting us from the wind and waves.

The strong winds continued building swell out at sea from NW and I was concerned about going out into waves on the open sea while I still did not know where the water was coming in from. While swimming I noticed a strange hole in the transom and what looked like a screw head no longer covered by filler or antifouling paint. Looking closer I thought I could see two pin prick holes. Could this be the source of water ingress? I mixed some filler and applied it over the wet hole waiting for it to harden. By evening no more water had come in, nor by next morning.

Friday gave us the weather to leave early, pass through the Levkas Canal , catch the 09.00 bridge opening and cross the 6 miles of open sea to Preveza. There was a long residual swell which is more comfortable to cross than the short swell which builds quickly with afternoon wind in this shallow sea. The aim was to be in the Preveza channel before the afternoon NW wind started to avoid such short swell and all was achieved. Early morning photos -

We stayed one night going ashore in Preveza for a few things including a gas bottle refill and some paint to use in the boatyard.

That evening we rowed the dinghy to the boatyard to go to a concert in the restored Roman amphitheatre of Nikopolis with friends Anne Marie and Bart, meeting the lovely young Pianist Agape Triantafyllidi, who had returned to her home town from Germany to give the concert.

Stronger NE winds followed so we moved to the north side of the large piece of water for shelter before motoring to the boatyard on Monday morning  for Apataki to be lifted out by crane onto the land for winter.

With good weather and three days before flying we did some painting of deck and the forward beams while we could have access with the trampoline net removed.

Anita took one last trip on the paddle board and everything was cleaned and stowed for winter.

We went one more time to Preveza town for the antigen test to fly, paying just 15 euros, the lowest price we have experienced.

In the middle of the next day we walked to the bus station, took the bus passing Aktion airport and bade farewell to Greece after two wonderful months on the boat.

Last days with family including Meganisi

 The next "wow" for the family was to return to nature in Fraxia Bay. Another wasp chose to sting my leg which was then swollen for a few days. Another praying mantis spent a few hours with us.

After that we wanted to show them Meganisi island. We chose one of the inlets on the North side, Abeleiki Bay and squeezed into a small gap between two boats, anchor to the front in 4 metres of water  and two stern lines tied to convenient trees. We put fenders to the sides just in case we came close to the boats either side.

Meganisi is known as the island of rats because uncollected rubbish piles used to attract them. We had a rat on board here before for a few hours, in a different bay, and prepared our defences with plastic bottles on the two lines to the trees.

From here we could access the shore easily by dinghy and walk over the brow of the hill to the main town of Port Vathi, enjoying the ambiance and atmosphere in the darkness. 

Many expensive houses are being built on Meganisi spoiling the nature.

Next morning we met neighbours Uta and Roland from Austria and found that our boats winter in the same boatyard.

In the afternoon we went ashore to the taverna for a snack of fried zucchini balls and tsatsiki, and a drink. 

By the time we returned we had the strongest wind of the day needing care to leave our "berth" without touching the neighbours. Gratitude to Roland for swimming ashore to release our stern lines from the trees.

Outside the bay the strong wind and short seas gave us half an hour of hard rough sailing to windward under genoa until we reached the lee of Scorpios island (once home of shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis and Jackie O, widow of assinsinated US President J F Kennedy) , not helped by large motor boats racing close past us leaving us rolling in their wake. I can say many times that they don't look back to see the havoc they cause, nor have consideration for other water users. 

Next morning we took family ashore at Nydri and walked to the bus stop to bid them farewell. Their flight left next day from Corfu and they had bought tickets to take a fast boat, Azimut,  from Levkas Town to Corfu via Paxos. I mentioned before how difficult it can be to get to Corfu. Fortunately the boat was scheduled that day. 

We are still bailing water daily from the starboard hull. I have a suspicion about where it may be coming from and am regularly monitoring the situation and avoiding too much stress on that hull just in case.

Images from Fraxia Bay

South with family

 By the time we had anchored briefly in front of Aktion Boatyard to put Lidia and Kamil ashore for their 30 minute walk to Aktion airport the afternoon west wind was established making a westward exit from Preveza along the narrow shallow channel to the open sea hard work for our small motor against the short waves and head wind.

Instead we set genoa and had a good sail eastward and back into the Gulf to our nature hideaway of Ay Marku. The four of us were happy to relax again in nature, swim, paddle etc.

Next morning we took a ride on the light East wind back to the Channel. Slowing passing in light wind a catamaran we had seen before in Sicily and making some photos. They took the first one of us.

We did not stop, just passed out of the long channel to the sea before the west wind set in and we turned south towards Levkas canal, arriving 20 minutes before the scheduled 15.00 Bridge opening. For the first time we heard the whistle of traffic police and watched a heavy flow of traffic crossing to the island. Time passed and the bridge did not open. 6 boats milling around waiting became 16 until finally the bridge opened to allow us through at 16.00.

As often before we stopped to swim between the south end of the canal and Ligia village. Later we took a ride on the evening NW wind to Varko Bay anchoring just before dark.

Next afternoon we used the stronger North wind to sail across towards Nydri. Bob asked if he could be towed on the paddleboard and I had no problem with it.  Naked he went to the board and enjoyed speed up to 6 knots coming back on board before Nydri. 

We anchored in Tranquil Bay and went ashore to see Nydri and get supplies.

Then we went to Vliho for water  and enjoyed showering at the tap in the hottest part of the day.

Preveza and the Gulf

 If you have been following the journey you will know we found many ants living inside the boat, having walked easily up an old sail put over the cockpit by the boatyard in our absence, and touching the ground on both sides.

We asked family to kill any they saw and indeed they killed a few. Days later we noticed no more. For sure we killed over 1000 in the first weeks, and the problem is resolved.

Reluctantly we left the relaxing 2 Rock Bay as there is more to explore and one couple only have a week with us. From here is new territory for all of them.

In light winds we continued south to our base town of Preveza, for supplies and to experience the charming old town and narrow streets full of tables and chairs for the tiny restaurants and which is buzzing like any summer.

With 6 on board water is being used fast, many showers after swimming, hair washing etc. We had refreshed some bottles at 2 Rocks, but need to top up almost daily about 100 litres. In Preveza fishing harbour is a tap with good tasting water. 

In summer heat we consume much fruit, cucumber and tomato. Sadly it is hard to find cucumber or tomato looking natural, or having good taste. Peaches and nectarines are plentiful,  water melons too, for as little as 26 cents per kilo. We found a good fruit and vegetable shop near to Masoutis supermarket in town. We love the Greek yogurt too.

In the evening we walked along the bustling town Quay and main tourist street, then sat to eat in the atmospheric Sajtan Bazar.

Soon the visitors wanted nature again so we took a good afternoon wind into the Gulf of Amvrika to our favourite hideaway, Ay Marku , where we could again relax and play to the sound of cicadas.

The following morning we motored to our nearby Vonitsa anchorage to go ashore for supplies and water. We spent the night there and moved to west side of the island in the morning as the strong east wind was making it less comfortable there. Anita took her yoga mat to the island. 

We have to find a way for the first couple to return to Corfu for their flight. Internet tells of bus and ferry connections but on closer investigation we find they do not operate daily. A travel agent in Nydri had given us name of a fast boat, and a number to call, but again the dates did not work.

Petra ( Largyalo) had spoken with a car rental owner who had said it should be possible to rent for a day from Nydri for 35 to 40 euros. I called him and later an English woman called me back and was quite rude, saying if I rented for one day she would lose 70 quid and wanted me to take a 4 day rental. Ok, it is August and they are busy now.

In the end Lidia found her own solution, a cheap flight from Aktion (Preveza) Airport so they ditched the Corfu flight and had an extra day with us.

The following morning we took the night wind from the East and sailed back to Preveza from where it was easy to drop off our departing couple on the Airport side of the water for a 30 minute walk to the airport.

I had noticed that the starboard hull had started to take in water. A taste test showed it to be salt water, and it seemed to be coming in from the aft end of the boat. Some bailing but all under control for now.