ONWARD TO ITHACA IN THE WAKE OF ODYSSEUS – DAYS 105 – 109

ONWARD TO ITHACA IN THE WAKE OF ODYSSEUS – 11 to 15 AUGUST, DAYS 105 – 109

On Saturday morning we went ashore to the lovely Taverna in Abelike Bay for device battery charging, cold drinks and zucchini balls.

Job done, we returned to the boat expecting a second windy afternoon to sail on south. We chose to take the channel to the west of Meganisi, the opposite side being tall majestic Levkas. This channel is reported to be the most beautiful in the Ionian islands. The sea was still glassy flat as we motored west past the northern inlets of Meganisi.

As we came to the NW tip we felt wind and were soon sailing close hauled on port tack. There is one small island and we came into it’s wind shadow. Such a beautiful area. I put the motor on just to get past the island and continued with less speed tacking down the channel. 

By the end it was almost windless again as we set course for Ithaca, home of Odysseus / Ulysees who had returned to his island and waiting Penelope after 10 years adventures away.

Without trusty Yamaha in the unreliable winds of the area I can see why he took so long. As we left the shelter of Levkas island we were exposed once more to the swell from the “outer” sea and were happy to enter the calm waters in the lee of Arkodian island. Seeing two yachts anchored at the island which does not get a mention in the pilot book we decided to go in close to assess the possibility of anchoring for the night. We edged into a small steep sided creek which the electronic chart showed to have our anchoring depth and felt we were there at the time of Odysseus. At the head of the tiny beach were goats, donkey and some “shelter”.

Fearing wind blowing in later to this narrow slot we came out and looked at the area where the two yachts were anchored, lines ashore, which the chart only showed as rocks.

We decided to continue motoring and made coffee and biscuits “with extras”, meaning marmalade and Greek yogurt. Before coffee was made we hit bigger swell and wind. I set the genoa close hauled on starboard and in the evening gusty winds force 4, 5 and perhaps 6, we held course towards Frikes Bay.

Arriving before dark we checked out the difficult deep anchorages and the first two were just not possible for us with boats there and darkness falling plus difficult manoeuvre in the gusty wind. Across at Markenas Bay we saw two smaller yachts and went over to join them. 

The chart showed that we could anchor in 5 metres, but we found a swim zone and very steep sides and carefully chose the shallowest available place at 9 m and I put down the new lighter kedge anchor. It held us for the night but we were within 3 m of the rock at times.

Ithaca is tall, steep, majestic, beautiful and challenging. The highest point is 808 metres above sea level, but still less than neighbouring Cephalonia. The steep slopes bring gusts, anchor holding is often not good, and locations for us few and far between as we are not equipped with long heavy chains like larger yachts.

On Monday morning we motored to see the inside of tiny Frikes harbour, even seeing a space where we could have tied to the wall, but we wanted nature and swimming so went round to Ag Nikolaus Bay in which we had seen 12 yachts at anchor the night before. We anchored in another little paradise in 3.5 m off the pebble beach, partly shaded by trees, with a few tents behind under the olive trees.

The early evening was gusty but all was well so we went ashore to walk and explore. We went up the unmade road through terraced olive groves and where goats were grazing on apparently nothing. It was beautiful, and quiet except for the wonderful chorus of cicadas.

We awoke to swell from the sea but it died down and we watched many large yachts come and go, some dragging anchors, even 60’ yachts. I thought we were holding but after a few violent gusts swam to check the anchor and could see the drag line through the sand, also a rock caught in the three arms of the Bruce anchor. That one in a million chance happened to Apataki before leaving her stranded on a beach in Malta in 2012 while I was ashore.

Of course I put the motor on and hauled up the anchor. The rock stayed firmly in place and I needed super human strength to bring it up and to release the heavy football sized rock, much to the astonishment of the Italians anchored close by. My finger suffered a little and the boat suffered a breakage of a bottle screw on the forward beam triangle from the stress of the weight on the wire.

We re-anchored at the north end of the bay only to have a small superyacht, Malaga (London) under British flag but with Italian crew and owner family on board come very close to us. Flags of registration are becoming meaningless.

The night was calm and we awoke to glassy swell and crystal clear view of the bottom. Soon people came to the beach and small boats anchored all around us and we were ready to leave, motoring two miles to pretty Kioni. It is a gem but the harbour is tiny and as one yacht pulled out from the Quay the next was waiting to take it’s place. We should return out of high season.

We continued on into the large Gulf of Molo which almost cuts the island in half, except for a 200 m strip of high land at the west end. It is like being in a fjord with the high mountains rising from the sea. We anchored in 5 m over sand in Aetou Bay with just one other yacht, the red and yellow Italian Fragola we had seen in Preveza.

There is a narrow beach and road but neither were intrusive, nor affected the beauty of the place. We love to find shallow uncrowded anchorages in August.

As the sun went down behind the mountains the wind gusts started and pulled hard at the anchor for a couple of hours, causing us to stay on board for security instead of taking an evening walk ashore.

Morning started with misty flat calm. After a swim we motored into the more protected Vathy harbour, the capital of the island.

There was lots of room to tie bows or stern to the walls but without electricity to top up batteries, and with warnings about poor anchor holding and gusts we anchored in 3 m. Later I made a rough count of about 100 yachts at the walls and a further 60 anchored in the enclosed anchorage.

We went ashore for much needed fruit and other fresh shopping and found two laundries, one self service so made a load of washing while charging appliance batteries and using wi-fi in there.

We expected evening gusts but the most was a change of wind direction as the sun went down behind the mountain.

ONASSIS ISLAND, SLEEPLESS NIGHTS IN MEGANISI AND THE RAT PAYS A VISIT - Days 100 to 104

ONASSIS ISLAND, SLEEPLESS NIGHTS IN MEGANISI AND THE RAT PAYS A VISIT - 6 to 10 August, Days 100 to 104

Monday morning and we prepared to leave our quiet spot at Vlikho Bay. I went ashore for tomatoes and bread and picked a few figs from another tree. I spent an hour at the Vilho Yacht Club topping up computer and phones, enjoying a coffee in the cool of early morning.

We motored out past Nidri and turned east passing the private island of Scorpios, once holiday home to shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis and his wife Jackie (widow of assassinated US President J F Kennedy). Some wind appeared and we opened the genoa and cut back the revs of the motor. It was just two miles to the bay of Spartochori where the pilot book tells of a taverna with electricity on the pontoon, and popular with flotillas. We arrived in an idyllic bay and came close to an empty pontoon. A man called us towards him then asked if we had booked ahead by telephone. Well of course we don’t do that and he told us that we could stay for two hours as the places were fully booked.

Further into the bay lies a smaller tavern and we saw yachts tied mostly bows to a wall. The man from there beckoned us but told us the electricity was not working. We thanked him and checked the pilot book for the next option. We came to Port Vathy, the capital of the small island of Meganisi and took a space there, soon having our batteries on charge and fridge connected to mains electricity. By evening 14 yachts were at this quay but there are only 8 points to connect power and water. 

NATURISM, CROCHET, YOGA AND WIRING – DAYS 97 - 99

NATURISM, CROCHET, YOGA AND WIRING – 3 to 5  AUGUST , DAYS 97 - 99

If I wake up in time it is good to enjoy early cool air because by 9 am it is too hot to sit in the sun. Before sunset we start to energise as the temperature falls, and again on Friday we went ashore to walk and to buy a few fruits and vegetables.

Since arriving in Greece we are surprised to find it so difficult to find tasty tomatoes and cucumber. What we find, whether in specialist shop or better supermarket is most disappointing. Here we only have a tiny shop and as warned, we are paying almost double for some things. That is islands for you. I did manage to exchange an old rusty 3 kg Camping Gas bottle for one in better condition though and the extra price was worth it as some are reluctant to fill it again.

We like to be naked at home when appropriate, especially in high summer. The boat is home and it is natural to be natural. The practice of being naked is known as naturism (sometimes nudist). It is really too hot for clothes and anyway who wants to wear wet clothes during or especially after swimming.

As children we love our natural state but society teaches us to cover up from a tender age as it is considered bad to be our natural selves. As with religion, we are taught to feel guilt and shame and can carry these negative feelings through life, for many people affecting their ability to live life fully.

This also lead to judgement. Women will complain about other women being topless or breastfeeding in public even saying “it is disgusting, my children should not see nudity so the next generation carries the traumas too. Part of our work at Intimacy and Bliss Workshops is helping people let go of many traumas and blockages to fulfilling life. Clothes are just one mask people hide behind.

There is a common misconception too that nudity is sexual. Go to a naturist family beach and feel the calm energy. Go to a non-naturist beach and everywhere can be noise and no peace.

So we share a few natural images and encourage you to find your own space to be natural, whether at home or in public.

We have found a beautiful anchorage in which we don’t suffer from swell at night. We are almost alone there but we have water and other facilities ashore. Now after our long journey here we can afford to rest for a few days without feeling guilty about moving on.

With no agenda we can do things which we don’t do when we are busy. For me this includes ship maintenance and I cut an old damaged rope into five lengths and used them for five places where an update was needed. I am also reading.

Anita loves our large cockpit as a place for movement and yoga. She has realised that many larger yachts don’t have the free space which our little catamaran has. She loves making art and while the canvas and acrylic paints have not come out yet the crochet is very busy. She just finished another bikini bottom and is working on a top she can use in the town.

On Sunday I while monitoring the battery state (the on-going concern) I found again that that wire to the second solar panel had come out from it’s strange connector so the fridge was again off very quickly. Thinking that I would need to get help or parts on Monday I suddenly thought about our friends on Stonehenge anchored across the bay and rowed over to seek help from Andrew which he gave as a temporary solution. We discussed our respective 12 volt electric systems and for sure I need more charging input, and of course a third battery will help but where to put it in our tiny space? I will continue to use the engine a couple of time a day to add to charging.

We stayed on the boat on Sunday evening, instead of walking ashore or going to the Yacht Club and lay on the trampoline net between the bows to watch the multitude of stars in the dark sky. How small we are in the whole Universe but we have an amazing life. We could stay here longer but there are so many other islands and anchorages to visit, and somewhere we will find shore power for a day or two to boost our batteries.

LEVKADA (LEVKAS), CANAL, INLAND SEA AND PRACTICALITIES OF LIFE AFLOAT – Days 93 to 96

LEVKADA (LEVKAS), CANAL,  INLAND SEA  AND PRACTICALITIES OF LIFE AFLOAT – 30 JULY 2 August, Days 93 to 96

Living on a small boat in a hot summer climate is wonderful but also drains energy. People ashore keep out of the hottest sun but everywhere is alive in the cool of the evening until late.

However we needed to buy supplies so took the dinghy on Monday to a place closest to Masoutis Supermarket in Preveza and stocked up for the days ahead. I also bought more petrol to carry from the nearby Shell petrol station although they had run out of expensive Unleaded 95 (1.59 euro per litre) so I had to take the more expensive  “power” version at 1.67. Petrol prices in Italy and Greece are really high.

After siesta and deep sleep we came ashore in the evening to the lovely Preveza town, took our showers at the “Yacht laundry” and went to a hardware store for a few items before eating again in the delightful Satan’s Bazar street listening to the wonderful music of Xaris Alexiou. They offer a good fixed price meal including drink at 10 euros.

We left the anchorage on Tuesday morning at about 08.40, motored out of the buoyed channel and into the open sea. There was a light NE wind and turning south at the penultimate marker buoy we could sail and put off the motor as the fridge was down to temperature. Just ahead was Bill on “Kyle” sailing his large yacht alone. I had helped him taking his mooring line as he came to the town Quay some days earlier.

Slowly we overhauled the larger yacht on the calm sea. The road bridge at Levkada Town opens on the hour to let boats enter and leave the canal which passes through the wetlands joining Levkas to the mainland. I wanted to pass through at 11.00 so put on the motor to increase our speed under sail which was falling. Of course the batteries needed it too.

We arrived minutes before the bridge opened and waited patiently with about 6 boats until we could pass through. More were coming north.

We discussed the possibility of going to the town Quay for two days to charge batteries again but we just came from a town and really wanted to get back to “swimming” places. I had a task to perform to deliver a spare belt to the Levkas marina office which I had brought all the way from Marina di Ragusa for Paul, so we anchored with other small boats between the marina and town Quay and I took it to the office, meeting in the marina Andrew and Jane, our Ragusa neighbours from “Stonehenge” who had stopped in the marina.

Job done we ate fruit and Greek yogurt then motored south along the canal with awning over the boom for some shade. It was a good experience passing though like we were on the motorway. 

Here is the gateway to the Inland Sea, with mountains and other land on all sides. We spent a long time getting here. It feels like being in Switzerland or Norway.

The light wind was against us and since Anita was feeling low energy and was sleeping in the shade we did not attempt to sail once past the canal. We headed along the coast the Nidri, now a bustling holiday resort with strong sailing connections, and once off the town we saw space in the quieter Tranquil Bay and anchored in the only shallow spot we could find of about 4.5m. The bay is home to some wrecked yachts and commercial vessels. 

Many yachts are anchored with line also to the shore and seem to have been there a long time.

We watch the comings and goings of inter-island car ferries, tourist boats and many yachts. The narrow channel has it’s share of open powerboats and jet skis passing much too fast for safety, even close to anchored boats where there could be swimmers in the water. Their wake also disturbs the anchored boats. It never ceases to amaze me  how they fail to show courtesy as they race past and leave boats rocking in their wake. Actually I doubt they ever look back and realise it.

At one point I looked towards one small wrecked yacht and saw a family of three sitting on a paddleboard removing the anchor and chain from the wreck. They even had a hacksaw to help their task.

In the evening we rowed over to Nidri and walked along the waterfront of many restaurants, then the parallel main street. It was lovely to be there but just once. It seems like a low rise Benidorm but has some romantic waterfront places to sip cocktails by candlelight.

On Wednesday we motored further south into the enclosed bay and anchored well away from the shore off Vliho. We came to realise that most anchored boats are just left here as a safe place, some being watched by boat service people ashore.

The bay is spectacular with mountains, trees and green water. Really we could be on a Swiss lake. The isolation is ideal. No one bothers us. We walked ashore in the evening to see what services are on the main road.

On Thursday we stayed put, I swam twice to scrub off the fast growing garden from the hulls and we are trying to keep a balance of fridge working, with keeping batteries up, helped by running the motor a few times a day. Life is simple and delicious. We came ashore in the evening to take a drink at Vliho Yacht Club, take showers (2 euros), and to charge appliances up again.

Temperatures are now above 30 degrees each day as it is August. To survive this we need to keep good ventilation through the boat, keep out the sun from the cockpit, and sleep siesta each afternoon. Swimming cools the body. We eat water melon and mostly cold food.