FRIDGE OFF AGAIN AND GOOD SAILING CONDITIONS RETURN – Days 76 - 80

FRIDGE OFF AGAIN AND GOOD SAILING CONDITIONS RETURN – 9 – 13 July, Days 76 - 80

It was starting to feel like we were becoming a permanent feature in the beautiful Lakka Bay on Paxos as we went ashore on Monday to the pebble beach before the afternoon swell started to roll in there. We put everything possible on charge and connected with the world again. We don’t want to drain the ship batteries unnecessarily.

Coffee progressed to stuffed vine leaves and fried white bait with bread. We needed almost 4 hours to charge the new power bank which is a useful addition to our equipment.

We walked to the little town to buy bread and did not see such wild water with white horses as we had on the previous days so we decided to up anchor and sail with the wind down the coast, past the busy harbour of Gaios and into the tiny bay of Monganisi anchoring in flat water 1.5 m deep. As we left Lakka we noticed the fridge was off again so kept the motor running longer than otherwise as we sailed. We anchored as far in as possible passing anchored yachts and the large group of mostly Sunsail charter boats which had come in early and occupied the whole quayside, a flotilla I suppose.

I noticed that one of the leads to the movable solar panel had become disconnected and perhaps with only half solar power, perhaps for a few days, we had perhaps found the reason for our problems.

We walked back to Gaios in the failing light and enjoyed the bustle of the full harbour of this capital of the island. We arrived home after midnight to find the fridge on but as soon as we switched on cabin lights it went off again. We can use a rechargeable LED light to save ship batteries.

On Tuesday morning we ran the motor for half an hour and it was functioning again.

Wanting coffee we tried to light the gas stove but the bottle was empty so we changed to the next one.

Sunsail left and Neilson fleet replaced them at the quay. We relaxed before walking ashore and taking a beer at the café with perfect sunset location.

We waited until Wednesday morning and less swell to motor early to the famous turquoise water of Antipaxos and took our place just outside the swim zone. It felt like the goal for the family holiday had been reached. The pilot book shows the two anchorages on the East side to be suitable for day stops but of course a few yachts had been there overnight. Like Malta’s Blue Lagoon peace and tranquillity does not last long as one tourist boat after another came in but we enjoyed being there. It was a chance for Lidia to have her first experience of snorkelling. “Why didn’t I do this before” she said after getting over the initial fear of mask and snorkel and I swam to the shore with her holding hands. Full of new confidence she swam back to the boat.

We wanted to use the afternoon wind for good sailing and headed across towards the mainland and the beautiful Sivota Islands anchoring in flat water in End Bay (Fourth Bay).

The staff of the water sports centre came early to get the kayaks and dinghies ready for the clients and soon a tourist boat anchored by us. More boats followed but what a lovely place from 5 pm to 9 am. The feature of this beautiful spot is the sandbar over which people walk with water up to their knees.

We needed provisions and walked ashore to the little town of Mourtos finding a good supermarket.

Back at the boat we swam to cool off as temperatures were reaching 30 Celcius now and planned to use a favourable but light wind to make progress towards Corfu Town depending on the wind. Once at the west side of the islands the wind was fickle and a small swell from the gap between Paxos and Antipaxos had the sails slating so after 20 minutes the motor went on again to assist motor sailing and to run the fridge. The solar and motor have not topped up the depleted batteries so we have to run the motor sometimes to cool the fridge until we get to shore power to give the batteries a good charge again. We have not tried yet the little town harbours as it is not so easy to take our boat in after dropping anchor ahead.

A little wind came and we sailed very slowly to Petriti, a non-touristy fishing port but with shelter from prevailing NW winds. Many yachts were anchored there and we found a tap to fill some water bottles.

The family fly early from Corfu on Sunday morning and we have strong NW wind warnings for afternoons so at their choice we motored on Friday morning back to Corfu Town, anchoring under the fort again so they can enjoy the Town again.

Walking in the evening around this lovely town we were reminded of the many swallows flying around (or are they swifts?) and making beautiful song. 

Back at the boat we were bombarded with loud music ashore until 5 am on Saturday. All equipment was dead so the Saturday task is to go ashore to charge everything and buy fresh fruit and vegetables.

PREPARATIONS AND PERPETUAL MOTION - Days 72 - 75

PREPARATIONS AND PERPETUAL MOTION - 5 to 8 July Days 72 - 75

It took us three days to complete formalities for the boat in Greece. The first day we went to the Port Authority Office in Corfu Town dock area. They gave us a paper to take to the Tax office and we arrived just before closing time 13,00 and paid our 50 euro DEKPA fee.

We were busy in town the next morning and were given the option of completing the process at the Gouvia Marina but arrived after the office there closed at 15.00 but really no-one is worried. So on Friday morning I waited for some time in the queue to be served by a sweet young lady Maria who completed the process with a smile and lovely attitude. Now we have one year, and can renew if we wish to. She said that as EU registered boat with EU crew coming from Schengen country we were the easiest case to deal with. We did have to pay an extra 15 euros yacht entry fee to Greece which I was unaware of. Life is difficult in Greece with a poor economy and migrant flows but she is a perfect example of keeping happy and not letting outside matters affect quality of life.

Maria explained that if we leave the boat in Greece we can go to a Port Police office and inform them so that the time we are away will count towards the year.

At 5am I had woken in the marina and changed battery charging to the second battery, but waking again at about 9 am I found no-electricity to the boat, and of course the fridge was off. I soon heard from the VHF radio traffic in the marina that the problem was a local power cut.

I took the computer to one of the cafes, paid 2.50 euros for an espresso coffee with hot milk and used their wi-fi. Returning to the boat we finally managed to connect to WIND and our 20GB roaming packing thanks to advice from Peter, one of the owners who had wintered in Marina di Ragusa.

There was much work to do and we were just ready in time to leave the marina by 14.00 checkout time with family due to land at the nearby airport from Poland at 15.15. We had wind to sail across the bay back to Corfu town while they took 15 bus to the town bus station and made the short walk to the entrance of the fort where we were anchored in shallow water below.

We stayed at anchor there overnight and took a night walk round the buzzing and beautiful town with so much charm and lovely back street restaurants and shops staying open very late.

On Friday morning after a swim we motored to the town quay to take on more petrol and fresh supplies then set course for Paxos island 27 miles away. There was almost no wind so we motored but eventually wind came and we sailed gently towards Lakka at the north tip of Paxos. After more than 4 hours of the passage with motor it shuddered and stopped as we approached the anchored yachts. The tank was empty so I quickly changed to the other tank and we anchored in sand at a depth of 2.8m of water.

The strong NW (prevailing wind) came ahead of forecast on Saturday morning – the blast from the north which had slowed our progress through Calabria. Some swell came into the bay but we were safe in the turquoise waters as we watched the wild dark blue see full of white horses (breaking waves) out at sea. Our visitors took the dinghy to the village and we were content to stay on the boat all day after a few very busy days.

All was not well as Mateusz was rowing back to the boat in strong gusts pulled hard on the oars and something broke. Later they tried to get back and accepted help from someone with dinghy and motor.

Our small catamaran has a larger cockpit than many yachts and at night they erect a small tent we bought in Sicily in which to sleep in comfort in the cockpit. The bay seemed full of yachts as we tried to sleep with gusting winds and motion of sea – PERPETUAL MOTION.

The gusty strong winds blew into the night. This is not as normal as described in the pilot book of strong from about 2 pm to 8 pm.

I was awake worrying about the dinghy problem as the dinghy is our vital link to the shore and in the past I have owned or borrowed dinghies which in my opinion due to poor design failed on one side so that rowing in strong winds was a problem.

My first task on Sunday morning, at last in less wind and swell, was to lower the dinghy to the water and inspect the problem. A rigid plastic tube had broken in the fitting to which the oar is attached. I found a solution in a double ended screwdriver and inserted the metal part, made larger with duct tape, through the two broken parts, and sealed the ends with silicone sealant. The result seems stronger than the original.

We came to Paxos on Friday to be ahead of the many charter boats which are mostly in the Marina for change over until Sunday morning. One after the other they came in with the less strong morning wind and by evening there were almost 100 boats in the anchorage. We had our spot and were happy with it. Many were rolling in the swell, especially mono-hulls. Catamarans are really the fashion now for charters and many came in.

The visitors stayed aboard and we went in late afternoon to the shore to explore. Anita described the place, both village and surrounding nature, as pure Heaven. There are some 200.000 olives trees on the island, many 400 – 500 years old, also the pencil thin tall cypress trees. Walking through their shade and feeling the refreshing breeze is more than a pleasure.

We did not risk draining the recharged ship batteries to charge computer and our power banks were emptied to phones and modems so we took a day away from internet which is perfect here. Anita understands now why people take small boats cruising in beautiful places.

GREY GOOSE ANCHORS CLOSE THEN WE SAIL TO CORFU ISLAND – 2 to 4 JULY, Days 69 to 71

Most of the yachts anchored at Nisos Othoni like us have entered Greece there and need to proceed to Corfu Town, one of the official ports of entry to deal with paperwork formalities. Whilst Croatia and Turkey, as non EU countries (yet) also have formalities, and Croatia has seen the benefit of charging for cruising, Greece is perhaps the only EU country which charges foreign yachts to be in their waters, and the old fashioned tradition of walking from one office to another with ships papers on arrival remains. At least the authorities don’t insist that visitors go there first. Othoni Island is a comfortable first resting place before the 30 mile journey to Corfu Town.

There was not a breath of wind in the morning and Chris and Jim took advantage of early leavers to come inside the harbour anchorage close to us and away from the ferry turning area to anchor Grey Goose close to us.

We weighed anchor at 13.45 and started motoring. Soon some wind filled in and we were happy to turn off the motor for some gentle if slow sailing with following wind and small sea. Anita took advantage for the first time this year of relaxing on the trampoline net between the hulls at the bows of our small catamaran.

Reaching the north side of Corfu Island we enjoyed a close view of the green tree covered slopes and the coast. What a contrast with the barren mountainous land of Albania so close on the other side. With the summer sun getting low we turned towards the narrowest point between the two countries where Albania also enjoys low tree covered land. It was like sailing up the River Fal in Cornwall. We kept clear of well marked rocks and soon turned into the welcoming Bay of Ay Stefanos, a popular anchoring spot full of tavernas and with road access too.

Our tiny boat can creep up into the shallows where almost no other yachts go and we anchored close to a beachside taverna, less grand than some of the others, but perhaps with more charm. Soon it was dark and mosquitos had started to eat us before we could wear more protective clothing.

It was a quiet night but we needed to get to Corfu Town to make the formalities so motored earlier than normal down the lovely East coast with many indented bays to anchor in protected from prevailing winds.

I don’t like to take the boat into unknown harbour situations so we continued past the old fortress enjoying the beautiful views of this Greek town with so many other influences including British. We anchored in a corner of the bay and took the dinghy ashore at the yacht club and walked the long distance past the ports to the Port Authorities office. There we were told where to go to pay the 50 euro DEKPA tax and we arrived just before that office closed at 13.00. It was a typical tax office but fortunately we did not have to wait long. Then another day we must take that receipt to a Port Police office to complete formalities. There is an office at the marina.

We found good fruits including a water melon, made some small food shopping and returned to the boat for swim and siesta. Later we re-anchored further south into the bay to be away from the wash of small boats coming in and out of the harbour.

All is good but the fridge is not always working. It needs more than 12.2 volts in the battery or cuts out to save battery power. Thankfully with the new motor we can give the batteries a boost over and above what the solar panels put in.

We heard from Chris (Grey Goose) that the ferry had rammed them at Nisos Othoni, despite the fact that they were well away from the ferry turning area. The boat came at them more than once and pushed them onto the rocks, then as anchor chains were caught up, the ferry reversing pulled them off the rocks. They sacrificed anchor and chain to get free, and in shock made their way to Gouvia Marina on Corfu to report to Police. More about this later.

On Wednesday morning we motored around to a town quay we had seen at close quarters yesterday and tied up for a couple of hours to buy petrol from a BP station about 200 metres  away and more fruit, yogurt, feta cheese and other needs before going ourselves to Gouvia marina for a service stop of one night to give batteries a charging boost from mains electricity, making laundry, having a shower, and filling up with water ready for family visitors tomorrow.

We met Ginger Cat again at the quay, having advised them of the place, with Andrea, Jono and Rebecca on board, last seen in Siracusa.

We met Chris and Jim there and saw the damage to Grey Goose which could have been much worse. It seems the Captain of the ferry is in trouble for not reporting the incident and he appeared at the Port Police office as they were making a statement to say it was his fault. This is Greece so the matter is not closed for any of the parties involved but Grey Goose will not be ready for sea for a while and the Police retain the ship’s papers for now.

We worked hard all afternoon and into the evening in the marina. Finally we went to swim in their pool to be told it had closed at 8 pm and would not open until 8 tomorrow morning. They put chemicals in once it has closed. It happens so often to us that we arrive after closing time, or we are last to leave places like supermarkets as they are closing.

GREECE, WONDERFUL NISOS OTHONI, - Days 67 - 68

GREECE, WONDERFUL NISOS OTHONI, 30 June to 1 July, Days 67 - 68

We slept well after our long slow 36 hour passage, and awoke to see a beautiful bay. Not the Santorini images of white and blue houses but a few red roofed buildings behind which are green tree covered hills. Being in this bay we can see why people arrive in a beautiful place and never leave. Cicadas sing all morning. 

The large Greek Orthodox priest walked along the quiet road by the beach, with his long beard, long black robes and long wooden stick.

Two of the boats we had seen in darkness were anchored close to us at Le Castilla. As we follow loosely the track of Ulysees (Odysseus) from the Island of Calypso (Gozo – Malta) to his home and waiting Penelope in Ithaca, we cross paths again and again with other travellers on a similar quest of enjoying the many islands and beautiful bays of Greece without hurry.

For me this journey started in July 2001 when I took Apataki from Swansea Marina to Padstow, then Bryher (Isles of Scilly) before sailing for five and a half days across the infamous Bay of Biscay, past Portugal and into the Mediterranean. The journey continued in 2004 exploring beautiful Sardinia and sailing on to Malta with the ultimate aim of reaching the Adriatic Sea. There was a long pause in the journey until now and really for the first time in my 50 years of sailing we are cruising and not just taking a few weeks of summer holiday afloat.

Olivier from the Nauticat 40 catamaran came close on his paddle board in the calm morning and we chatted before they left on the next leg of their cruise.

I took a swim and was surprised how cold the water felt. Then I continued the bottom cleaning since Apataki has been in the water for over a year and needs new anti-fouling paint sometime.

We tried to connect to the outside world by internet but that is hard. The TIM modem allowed access with password to one device but the other two showed the same password was wrong. It was connected but nothing flowed. The WIND one responded to password but nothing happened. We were warned that we may need to change some settings in Greece but how? The Maltese Vodafone connected by no traffic passed. We seem to be at a remote island at the edge of the world. Finally during the day were moments of connection and messages came in and out but we could not even open Google mail so are without weather forecasting and navigational and cruising information.

On Saturday we did not go ashore, but on Sunday took the dinghy and walked to the small fishing harbour which has been improved to allow a few yachts to tie up, then up to a viewpoint on the hill overlooking the bay. Paradise indeed. In the evening we shared a moussaka and wine ashore to use the good internet connection in the café.

The larger ferry came in and it’s access was impeded by a yacht but he manoeuvred carefully to bring the vessel stern to the quay for unloading, The yacht later moved and I did not see the ferry leave as we were sleeping our siesta. More about this later. The next ferry episode is scary and bizarre.

SLOW PASSAGE TO GREECE, FULL MOON AND DOLPHINS – 28 and 29 JUNE, Days 65 – 66

The weather window arrived. We took the rubbish ashore, ate breakfast and watched at least 5 yachts we knew leave ahead of us, Grey Goose to Crotone, Michel to Levkas, and others towards Corfu. By the time we left at 11 and sailed the few miles to Capo Rizzuto the only yachts in sight were headed to Crotone, the others having disappeared perhaps using motor as we went more slowly in the light winds under sail.

Sometimes the speed became so low that we motor sailed for a couple of hours then tried sailing again. At least the sea was slight and becoming more calm so at rest on the bed on the bridge deck we could sleep without banging on waves hitting the underside of the bridge deck.

Day came towards night with a magnificent sunset over Italy behind us and an amazing rise of the full moon, so dark at first then as she climbed, becoming brighter. We could steer all night by lining up moon with a part of the boat which was good for half an hour at a time before we needed to check the course again.

Without autopilot working we steered one after the other for the whole time. Anita came on deck at 02.00 and took over steering so I could sleep once I had shown her how to use the moon to steer the correct course. She steered until sunrise allowing me a good sleep. 

Just after 07.00 I calculated that at this speed we would be at sea for a second night so put on the motor which stayed running until we anchored at about 23.00.

Being calm Anita felt able to do jobs on the boat and some crochet so time passed more quickly for her than on a rougher passage like the one to Roccella Ionica.

We had first sight of our destination Nisos Othoni from 45 miles away and could steer to a visible target. 25 miles away we had our third dolphins visit, this pod of about 10 being much larger than the small ones we had seen before. They really played around the boat and Anita managed a good photo. They so lift the spirits, which were already high as we were getting closer to Greece after some hard days.

Our arrival was beautiful as the full moon arose orange from the horizon, then lit the coast and bay as we entered. The scent of herbs was in the air.

36 hours after departing Le Castilla we anchored in the dark in Greece.

LE CASTELLA 25 – Days 62 - 64

LE CASTELLA 25 – 27 June, Days 62 - 64

Our first impressions of Le Castella, apart from the prominent and partly restored castle, was of a scruffy and sleepy fishing town. Once ashore we bought fresh fish to cook at home from the fish shop of a local fishing family. The fish-wife made a perfect job of preparing and fileting the fish, which tasted delicious cooked in our tiny galley.

On the west side by the castle are tourist restaurants and shops, and as if in England, the June tourists were dodging showers, or walking round as this was not beach weather. It was almost 13.00 and all the shops were closing. Arriving at the one supermarket we found that it had also closed until 16.00 so went back to the harbour.

In Roccella Ionica we had been berthed next to Christine and Jim of Grey Goose. They motored in past us in the small anchorage at Le Castella, and berthed in the small harbour. They hosted our dinghy when we went ashore and charged our computer and other devices as we were struggling with battery power under black and grey skies.

We came back from the little town to find Chris and Jim on another yacht we had seen in Roccella and we were invited by Michel and his wife from Paris to have Limoncella, coffee or wine. Michel had a rental car to take his wife to the airport next day and took me 3.7 km to a petrol station as there is no fuel to buy in Le Castella. Sailor helps sailor. Merci beaucoup.

Strong north winds with gusts and thunder storms were forecast and we found that the stronger north wind, and especially NE created swell in the anchorage outside the harbour we motored round to the bay by the castle for a comfortable night. After my early morning swim to the beach we were joined by a massive Sunreef 74 catamaran, 34’ Italian yacht and Nauticat 40 catamaran from Biarritz. I had once Captained the latter type in Spain for a weekend.

Strangely and totally against forecast each afternoon a SW wind brought swell into the bay. We settled down for the second night but in the early hours awoke to an uncomfortable swell as there was a NW wind so we motored back to anchor in the harbour. Again we met up with Chris and Jim, went finally to the supermarket and had warm showers in the port. Showers on the boat a a few litres of water heated in a camping shower bag which needs sun to heat up and uses precious supplies.

We came back to Apataki just before an afternoon of thunder, lightning and heavy rain.

Twice in the day we observed one fishing boat towing another back to harbour, the second time they joined side by side and the controlling boat bought the raft safely to the dockside. Low evening sun brought beautiful light and we dined in the cockpit. Sea people help sea people.

We did not want to risk the mainsail being stuck again up the mast be the wayward lazy jack so Anita went up the mast to tape the upper parts safely out of harm’s way.