LEON and CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

LEON and CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

The purpose of our trip north was the result of an invitation by Alfonso and Maria to stay with them and to be shown around León and surrounding areas. Alfonso and Maria spend their time helping people, animals and the environment, whether paid or as volunteers. We had met them in Malta. This summer Alfonso had been in the Dominican Republic for three months, and Maria in Mexico. Now he is working in a shelter for the homeless in León at nights.

With the spare tyre fitted we continued to their home just outside Leon at San Miguel del Camino. Everywhere we saw signs of Camino de Santiago, and even a few pilgrims walking in the cold damp late November air. Thousands pass in the warmer months.

Next day they took us to the city and we walked around seeing city walls, some ancient buildings and a building designed by Anton Gaudi, better known in Barcelona for his exciting architecture.

We followed Camino signs in the pavement to a church. Alfonso pointed out that pilgrims not fit to continue to Santiago de Compostela could pass through a door and consider that they had completed the pilgrimage. We went into another door of the church finding a simply decorated interior. The surprise was that each pew of the church had it’s own radiator so the church felt warm.

León experiences real winter. The temperature dipped to 4 degrees Celcius while we were there and at times was heavy rain. It is common to have snow and to drop below zero.

One another day they took us up into the mountains to the NE of Leon. At the first stop in the mist two large sheep dogs, not like English ones, came to the car so our dogs were not allowed out. 

We drove on to the Cascada de Nocedo, a wonderful waterfall, and to La Vecilla Monturto where we walked for a while before it started to rain. Overhead more than twenty vultures circled, a first time for our hosts who are regular visitors there. The whole area is green, wet and beautiful.

Back in the village we walked around seeing more about the Camino. 

We realised after that there are many Camino routes converging on Santiago de Compostela, the Roman Catholic Holy place.

Finally Alfonso came with me for the new tyres to be fitted. They are special tyres to hold the weight of the camper during long periods of activity, so are stronger and of course more expensive. In Spain the left and right treads must be the same type so the blow out cost me two expensive new tyres, as well as the body damage from the explosion.

The mechanic reversed the vehicle without care and damaged the rear bumper. They made a temporary repair.

TOLEDO & AVILA and a TYRE BLOW OUT

TOLEDO & AVILA and a TYRE BLOW OUT

The drive westward to Toledo from Aranjuez was less than one hour on almost deserted roads through open farming country. Again we found a parking area close to the River and city by www.park4night.com. As often there are notices advising no camping with image of a tent. Parking is defined in Spain as with any vehicle (even if sleeping inside) but Camping is where windows open out to the side, or objects such as tables and chairs are put outside the vehicle. The Police don’t always recognise this distinction and ours was one of about seven vehicles in the car park without disturbance in the night.

Before dark we walked to explore the City, crossing an ancient pedestrian bridge over the river Tajo.

We climbed up many steps to the city at the top. Toledo is the Provincial Capital of the autonomous region of Castilla-La Mancha. It is steeped in history and as well as being a fortified city has many attractive streets and buildings including a huge Cathedral and the Alcázar which dominates the skyline. It was also home to the painter El Greco as well as being a City where three religions lived side by side, Christian, Muslim and Jewish. 

We stopped outside the Cathedral to speak with a street musician who was singing the Reggae song of Bob Marley, Three Little Birds. Jão from Mauritius told us he had left his home island many years ago and used to play in a Reggae band in Spain until the “Crisis”

We were amazed that so many shops were selling swords and dangerous knoves. I don’t think they can be sold in England? Later we learned that Toledo historically was the place of manufacture of these weapons. There is also a museum of Torture.

We woke on Sunday morning to the sounds of a commentator of an event. Later we found it was a running event. We walked along the river in both directions. The walk is part of long distance paths across the country and most attractive.

In the early afternoon we drove to Avila, famous for it’s beautiful and complete city walls, but only made a meal stop. One day we should return and walk within the walls.

Continuing north in the darkness up the A6 before Vallodolid I felt some wobble from side to side, and then a small noise. Within seconds there was an explosion at the rear and I could see white smoke and debris in the mirror. The nearside rear tyre had shredded and the explosion also blew away park of the “skirt” at the bottom of the caravan.

I slowed and was able to reach the start of a slip road to a Repsol service area. Safely off the fast road I put the two warning triangles behind the vehicle, wearing my high visibility jacket.

As I was searching for the number to call for assistance (In Spain assistance is an obligatory part of vehicle insurance), and details of policy and location two Guardia Civil Police Officers came to me and told me to drive very slowly into the “gasolinera”, there being some rubber to protect the wheel rim. They told me we were at Km 154 and left me to call for help.

Within about 90 minutes the assistance had managed to jack up the vehicle with two large jacks and to put on the spare wheel and we continued for another 63 km up the road before sleeping for the night. Tomorrow we can reach out friends near to León. We were lucky to have been so close to the service area and to be safe, but we have the cost of two new tyres which does not help the winter budget.

ROYAL ARANJUEZ, MADRID, SPAIN

ROYAL ARANJUEZ

Continuing north in our journey towards Madrid we came to the wonderful city of Aranjuez., 42 Km south of Madrid. Since Phillip II in 1560 it has been one of the Royal Estates of the Crown of Spain. The present Palace came from the 17^th Century and was designed to rival Versailles. The Palace blends holistically into nature and there are many avenues of trees in the city as well as open spaces making it a pleasure to explore on foot. The area is flat so bicycles would be good too.

Thanks to www.park4night.com we found a parking place very close to the Palace and spent the night there. Next morning Anita went for a run and we met in the wonderful Jardin de la Isla between Palace and river. The paths were a golden carpet of autumn leaves.

Afterwards we went to Aranjuez Camping for a service stop and camped right by the river. 

On Saturday morning many canoes and kayaks came past us. The weather was amazing for November allowing us to spend time outside before driving west on to Toledo.